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Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Drill the holes on flat PVC or HDPE. I used HDPE (cutting board) bought from the dollar store. 1/4" copper tube does bend easily so you just have to be careful. It usually comes packaged in a coil form already so the easiest way I know of is to just stretch out the smaller windings to the diameter you need. Then start sliding the tube in he holes of each support and keep looping it around, carefully making sure that you are maintaining the proper diameter form. Once you have about 4 turns or so in the holes, it becomes much easier and the form will maintain its diameter. Other people just cut notches in the side of the support and slide them in there, you could always do that too. Also, make sure you're putting your windings on in the correct direction. Having to unwind a primary and start over is a pain in the @$$
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Sorry, Same direction of winding as the secondary coil. When I did my primary I accidentally wound it in opposite direction that my secondary was wound and I had to take all the tubing off and redo it. Also, ill add that if you go the route of drilling holes instead of notches, for 1/4" tubing with 1/4" spaces between turns (that means 1/2 spacing between the center point for the holes) use a 3/8" drill bit instead of 1/4". The spacing will still be the same. I can attach a close up pic of my primary if you'd like, or just visit my thread 'strike rail arcs to secondary' to see what my primary looks like.
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
No problem. If you need a more specific view of a certain part of the primary, lemme know i'll do my best.
The top photo is with it fully wound before I cut the remaining tubing off and before I mounted the supports to the base. I suggest that you do not mount the supports to your base and then try to spiral the copper tubing into place. Rather, it is better to sit down with the coil of copper tubing in your lap and spiral the supports around the tubing.
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
the mad scientist wrote ...
Oh I am doing a pancake coil for my spark gap Tesla coil. Should I change and make my coil like yours?
Oh, haha. Sorry. No you dont have to change it.. thats up to you. you can do a pancake coil in a similar fashion if you implement supports like the ones on my primary, just turn the supports horizontally rather than vertical. A pancake coil should be easier this way because the copper tubing already comes in a pancake sort of form. Also, it helps a lot if you draw something like this .....
.....on your base board, but in your case draw the inner diameter and outer diameter and mark where the tubing should lay. It serves as a good 'blue print' reference and outline when putting your primary together. This way you can check and compare the diameter and spacing of the tubing to your blueprint periodically as you are putting the primary together to make sure all dimensions are in check.
Registered Member #6038
Joined: Mon Aug 06 2012, 11:31AM
Location: Salado, TX
Posts: 248
I have become a big fan of the pancake primaries - used to always use a slight conical coil, but they are more difficult to support. Pancakes are easy to wind and seem to work well for me.
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