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Registered Member #1403
Joined: Tue Mar 18 2008, 06:05PM
Location: Denmark, Odense C
Posts: 1968
I use toner transfer all the way, only single sided boards, I will rather reroute a board to single sided than use two sided, call it hanging in the past ;)
It is just the typical way, use laser printer on glossy paper for pictures, iron it over to a clean pcb, etch it with a weak FeCl batch.
I make traces mostly 0,08" to make up for etching damages
Physics Junkie wrote ...
What is everyones thoughts regarding 're-usability' of ferric chloride? assuming that it is not spent. What I mean is for example, I just etched a board, so can I use that same ferric chloride for another board? It is concentrated with no water added. And if so how many times do you think I can re use it until I should make a new batch?
For the developer, I read NOT to ever re-use it, just to use fresh each time.
I use the same batch for over a year, only went through 1000g of concentrated FeCl in 4-5 years.
Registered Member #135
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
I have about 3 gallons of Ferric Chloride in a 5 gallon poly bucket, been that way for at least 7 years. I'm not etching every day, but when I need it, I just plug in the fish tank heater and let it warm up, and I'm set to go.
Not dumping the stuff every time cuts down on waste down the drain, and makes the folks at the treatment plant happier, CuCl2 is basically poison, so it's enviornmentally friendly. When rinsing off a board, I rinse back into the bucket as well, after all, the water constituent is just going to evaporate anyway.
I have added concentrate I think twice in the timeframe, and seperated the CuCl2 crystals from the bottom of the bucket once.
Very low maintenence, as opposed to creating a mess every time and dumping.
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Wow thats really good to know. Considering that FeCl can get expensive if you etch a lot. But now i know it wont be necessary to take it to my local hazardous waste removal every 6 months
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Does anyone apply their own soldermask? I came across this it seems like good quality. It appears that the board is fully developed to begin with, then its lacquered, then the through holes and vias and pads are redeveloped.. and thats pretty much it. Anyone done this with success?
Registered Member #2901
Joined: Thu Jun 03 2010, 01:25PM
Location:
Posts: 837
Never done it, but on youtube I see you can buy dry films as well you can laminate onto your board before exposure. Seems slightly (but only slightly) easier.
Registered Member #2901
Joined: Thu Jun 03 2010, 01:25PM
Location:
Posts: 837
Conundrum wrote ... Seems that an alternative approach is to use the "cooked ink" method ie yellow epson ink, then laser that to remove unwanted areas.
Why not just straight print the pattern?
The only problem I foresee is that your printer needs to be able to handle thick stock with a straight path ... so you have to use a CD tray with small circuit boards or mess around with the printer (rebuild it as a flatbed for instance). I have found one mod kit for the Epson P50 for card printing which looks interesting though ... unfortunately except that getting stuff from China in the Netherlands is ridiculously expensive nowadays. it's on Aliexpress, but they don't offer free shipping to the Netherlands any more cause customs adds on such huge charges a lot of shipments were refused ... with the more expensive shipping option and customs I'd be out more money than getting the P50 printer to mod ... too much money for an experiment :
Registered Member #96
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4062
Hi, Yes, that method also works if the board is suitably prepared and cleaned. Some folks are using old Epson printers for this because the mechanisms are easily hacked and the heads on these prehistoric printers last nearly forever if cared for properly.
The yellow ink seems to be the secret, if correctly printed then "cooked" it is tougher than acrylic and will even resist abrasion.
Re. CIS, I can help with a chip eraser, also may be able to source the thin silicone tubing from a fish supplies place here. Doesen't matter if it is cleaned with DI water before use as most of the junk gets filtered long before it reaches the head by the cartridge filters.
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