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Registered Member #4146
Joined: Tue Oct 18 2011, 02:01AM
Location: Wisconsin, U.S.A
Posts: 56
Mine arrived today! I'm excited to put it all together and as the others have said my kit is missing the 2 30k reistors as well. What value resistors will work as a replacement since i'm currently out of 30k's and also the required wattage. I'm just unsure of the minimum requirements. Thanks.
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
I think the purpose of R1 and R2 are generally for safety. If you look at most CW multipliers, there are no resistors unless you need it for a specific power input and/or just for safety reasons.. (I think). For those of us in the US using 110-120vac, this shouldn't be a problem as long as the current isn't real high and R1 & R2 can probably be bypassed with a piece of wire. However I would not yet go that route until we hear from EVR. For those in the UK, will need to step down their voltage and use resistors probably
Registered Member #3943
Joined: Sun Jun 12 2011, 05:24PM
Location: The Shire, UK
Posts: 552
Physics Junkie wrote ...
Houdini0118 wrote ...
Mine arrived today and it looks very cool. I have started building it but it appears R1 and R2 of high voltage multiplier 1.0 are missing.
I noticed that too. Here's a short video of everything that's included in the kit as well as some comments on the assembly
+1 for the heads up on soldering the diodes in place first. It seems obvious now you have mentioned it but this is exactly the sort of thing I normally find out when its too late.
Still waiting for my kit to arrive on this side of the Atlantic, and I hope customs don't decide to put up a fuss
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
Houdini0118 wrote ...
This might be a stupid questing but how do you put the capacitor legs? i cant seem to get it to do anything and i have tryed several configurations.
Not exactly sure what you mean. They don't have polarity and doesnt matter which way they are oriented, or are you unsure how they are to be installed? Show us a pic of what you are doing if possible
Registered Member #7267
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2012, 12:16AM
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 407
I dont really know anything about how to determine spark gap lengths. I've read something before about it but dont really remember... Trial and error seems best. For this kit I would guess anywhere between 2-5mm is a good place to start. What do you guys think?
Registered Member #8558
Joined: Thu Dec 06 2012, 11:38PM
Location: usa
Posts: 57
like what leg connects to what leg i tryed straight across and i could get them to all fire but no output and i tryed in a Z configuration and could not get them to fire. And i got not output with ither. Also return is just connected to input - right?
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