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muciek man

Sat Aug 12 2006, 09:29PM

Registered Member #163 Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 01:55PM
Location: caledonia ohio
Posts: 22

i have an old 8n tractor with coil ignition but although the coil is brand new , i accualy bought two thinking that one might have been bad at the factory, and the wires are all connected i cant keep the coil working / tractor running for more than 1-2 seconds any ideas to convert over to somthing that works better or fix this problem tractor is a 1952 ford 8n electrical is 6 volt positive ground im kind of at my wits end but its a great tractor when it runs and i really dont want to get rid of it yet

Electroholic

Sat Aug 12 2006, 10:24PM

Registered Member #191 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 02:01AM
Location: Esbjerg Denmark
Posts: 720

did you check the breaker contacts and the capacitor?
and maybe the timing thingy?

check this out.

Steve Conner

Sat Aug 12 2006, 11:10PM

Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706

The ignition coil doesn't usually give much trouble. It's usually either the contact breaker points (worn out or badly adjusted) or damp getting into the distributor. My mom and dad's old car used to get really difficult to start every few months, and eventually we figured out that it was due to the contact breaker mechanism wearing down and messing up the ignition timing. There was a procedure for setting it in the haynes manual, but we just twiddled the points with a screwdriver till it ran nicely.

So anyway, the things to do are: Pull one of the spark plugs, hold it against the engine block to keep it grounded, and check that you get a nice strong spark when you crank the engine. In fact, pull all the spark plugs and make sure they're not oiled or sooted up. Check the points are set right, and borrow one of those strobe timing lights to check the timing. That's what I'd do anyway.

Avalanche

Sat Aug 12 2006, 11:38PM

Registered Member #103 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:16PM
Location: Derby, UK
Posts: 845

This sounds similar to a problem I had with my old car, it would run for a minute or two, then cut out suddenly, and refused to start afterwards. Once I had to have it towed back, but I could never figure out the problem. Eventually I worked it out, the points were sticking, and when it warmed up they would stick open permanently, killing the spark. It took a while for them to close again, after which the engine would run as normal once again.

Kolas

Sun Aug 13 2006, 12:03AM

Registered Member #102 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:15PM
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 169

Has the possiblity of a fuel problem been looked at?
I know it's no 4 cylinder engine, but I have a lawn mower
And it used to sart up, and then die maybe 3 seconds after. Many tries to remedy the prolem were looked at, including the magneto, however when hooked up to a 5kV break down neon it flashed.(perhaps you could put a neon/zenon flash lamp in serise with the iggy and the cylinder and see if it is telling of an issue.)

I took off the air filter and it ran, so replacement of said filter worked for me. Just a possibilty

(so I dont get fussed at, air IS considered fuel.)

Kolas

Hazmatt_(The Underdog)

Sun Aug 13 2006, 12:07AM

Registered Member #135 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735

I know this isn't really that great of an example, but:

When I was playing with a 4stroke powered minibike it worked grate until I had engine problems too. The electrical system was dead. What had happened is that the wire connecting to the point contacts (braided copper) disconnected from the points and killed the engine. After replacement, no problems. The wire had just worn out.

So what I would do is pull the entire elect. system and check it out. Now this migt be really hard because they put your points on the flywheel sometimes. So that will take some real investigation. And you might try google for specifications too. Just a thought.

muciek man

Sun Aug 13 2006, 01:23AM

Registered Member #163 Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 01:55PM
Location: caledonia ohio
Posts: 22

no spark right now thats the problem first thing in the morning i will check the points as for timing its non adjustable without tearing engine completly apart as rotor is connected to flywheel directly by a bevel gear inside crakcase and distrubitor cap is square and non moveable when installed as for fuel problem sight glass is clean and i just overhauled carburator 3 wks ago and havent used it more than 3 or 4 engine hours because of this issue and there is no air filter in use also new plug wires and meter says power to coil to check condenser reqires removal of hood and raditor so im going to try to get a set of dental mirrors to see in before i remove hood and rad ill check these issues tommorw an cross my fingers

Kolas

Sun Aug 13 2006, 04:32AM

Registered Member #102 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:15PM
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 169

no offence, but jesus a few periods please, good luck

Simon Barsinister

Sun Aug 13 2006, 12:56PM

Registered Member #116 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 03:19AM
Location: Erie Pa, USA
Posts: 29

Check for a bad resistor. Sometimes they are wired so that the coil is directly connected during cranking, then through a resistor when the key is in run position.

Rich

muciek man

Tue Aug 15 2006, 03:32PM

Registered Member #163 Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 01:55PM
Location: caledonia ohio
Posts: 22

after about 5 hours and hood/ radiator removal we gave up and called my uncle. and in about 10 minutes he found the problem. the backing plate for the point gap is worn out and if it shifts 30 thousandths it grounds out. hence runs sometimes dies and starts right back up there is no repairing it so now we have to find one somewhere. hopefully thats all it needs.any ideas beside ebay on where to get one it is backing plate for front mount distributor. as for resistor there is a key to energize coil and a button on the gearbox next to the shifter to start it . no resistor unless its inside the coil.

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