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Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
When modding the usuall servos that have mechanical stops and seperate potetiometers, is there a deliberate position to leave the pot in?
should it be cenetered? it seems like fixing the pot in one position, and sending PWM signals should not just control continous CW and CCW rotation, but the speed of rotation as well.
any hints, i plan to try it tonight but i dont want to CA glue the pot till im totally sure.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
Steve Conner wrote ...
Seems to me like the servo would just spin endlessly if the pot was disconnected. I guess it depends if the internal control loop is P or PI.
I dont mean disconnecting the pot, you dont do that for fear of what you mention. you turn the pot up or down then fix it in place permenttely, i think. Then you can send less than or more than the center 1500uS pulse for speed and direction... i just dont know where to turn the pot and leave it.
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
You usually want to set it in the center, so that sending a command for 'center' results in no rotation, and longer/shorter pulse widths give cw/ccw rotation. I am not exactly sure what you mean with the speed part, with all of the servos I have played with (pot centered) the speed has been proportional to the input pulse length.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
... wrote ...
You usually want to set it in the center, so that sending a command for 'center' results in no rotation, and longer/shorter pulse widths give cw/ccw rotation. I am not exactly sure what you mean with the speed part, with all of the servos I have played with (pot centered) the speed has been proportional to the input pulse length.
yes, yes yes !!! thats what i thought, keep it centered, then send the center command (1500uS) for stop.
but does it have to be perfect or can the pot be off a little, then compensate by nudging the 1500uS pulse up or down a tiny bit for zero rotation?
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3140
I believe that the speed of rc servos is determined by the supply voltage and the motor type, i.e. the controller just switches the + and - supples to the motor.
There is almost always an offset in practice, that's why rc controllers have an offset adjuster. You can have any offset you wish, then compensate at the controller end.
Registered Member #65
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:43AM
Location:
Posts: 1155
Measure the larger axial variable resister value, and replace with two identical matched 1% resisters or a good 20-turn variable resister brick. Cut off the internals of the variable resister and the stop-tab to allow continuous rotation. Thus, one can have a more mechanically reliable and predictable control calibration using this method.
You may also wish to wrap the servo body in grounded copper Foil tape as some brands may be sensitive to RF noise affecting positions.
Every hobby servo may still require timing calibration even with precise mcu timing, but note sending no signal usually stops rotation. This is due to the back-EMF from the motor being used in the control loop of the servo.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
ive removed the pot labeled 5k, yet it reads 4.8k end to end, so the nearest standard value is...im thinking of using 2.2k in series, otherwise ill have to add 200 ohms more in each branch.
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
A pair of 2.2k should work fine, although frankly just leaving the old pot in place works fine too as long as you can find a spot to put it. Like you said, you can null out any small error by adjusting the pulse width slightly, hobby servos usually aren't super precise devices to start with.
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