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Registered Member #3806
Joined: Sat Apr 02 2011, 09:20PM
Location: France
Posts: 259
For the fans you can look for "Muffin Fan" on Ebay (or google) They're a bit expensive but they really blow a lot of air, silently, and they run directly on mains voltage (either 115 or 230) Like htis one :
Okay so I tried to fire up my coil tonight. The only thing I have changed was the new spark gap. and a little tuning.
I start to turn the variac on and a spark came off the MMC tank bank. The spark gap inst firing, the terry filter inst firing, the NST is on, everything is grounded, all my connections are connected tight and connected right
But Ill shut off the variac, check everything, turn in back on and another spark comes from the end of the MMC tank bank.
The spark is coming from one of the connections where the wires connect to the caps. No caps are popped, no resisters are popped. Nothing is burnt, again all wires are connected solid.
What did I do wrong? the only thing that has changed is the Spark Gap.
Registered Member #480
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 07:08PM
Location: North America
Posts: 644
IR -
Any "sparking" you are seeing at your MMC is between TWO conductors that are at very different potentials.
Take some clear, well focused photos of the area in your MMC where you believe the "sparking" is taking place, and post them here.
Most likely you've got some sharp points that are generating a very high field gradient, and insufficient spacing between conductors.
Also, verify the TOTAL gap width of all the individual gap elements in your new spark gap; new arcing at the MMC, where there none before, make me suspect that your total spark gap width with your new multi-element gap is greater than it was with your single element gap.
Also, having a ground conductor "larger than it needs to be" won't affect your coil operation in any way; it's just heavier and more expensive than it needs to be.
Any "spaking" you are seeing at your MMC is between TWO conductors that are at very different potentials.
Take some clear, well focused photos of the area in your MMC where you believe the "sparking" is taking place, and post them here.
Most likely you've got some sharp points that are generating a very high field gradient, and insufficient spacing between conductors.
Also, verify the TOTAL gap width of all the individual gap elements in your new spark gap; new arcing at the MMC, where there none before, make me suspect that your total spark gap width with your new multi-element gap is greater than it was with your single element gap.
Also, having a ground conductor "larger than it needs to be" won't affect your coil operation in any way; it's just heavier and more expensive than it needs to be.
Herr Zapp
I just dont understand how something could be arcing between the mmc tank bank. Nothing on it at all has been changed whats so ever.
I think previously I have my single gap spaced at 1/4" with the tungston rods.
I guess Ill go back and check the gaping on the new gap. Considering thats the only element I have changed on the coil since using the single gap, thats also my only belief of where the issue is coming from. Ive got all gaps spaced at .07
Registered Member #480
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 07:08PM
Location: North America
Posts: 644
IR -
All we know from the very limited info you have provided is that you are having an insulation failure that's leading to a visible spark.
This can be breakdown of air insulation (in which case you have inadequate spacing between components for the voltage differential between these parts), breakdown across the surface of an insulating material (whatever you have your MMC caps mounted to), etc.
So, once again, please post some well-focused close-up photos of the area where the you believe the spark is occurring. It's likely that the root cause will be very apparent to those on this forum who are familiar with high-voltage circuitry.
EDIT: In your earlier post, you stated:
"The spark gap inst firing, the terry filter inst firing, the NST is on, everything is grounded, all my connections are connected tight and connected right."
What is "inst"??
Did you mean "isn't (as in the spark gap IS NOT firing, and the Terry filter safety gaps ARE NOT firing?) Or did you mean that NEITHER the spark gap of the safety gaps are firing?
If your new multi-segment spark gap IS NOT firing, you've got some other problem.
If BOTH your spark gap AND your safety gaps are firing simultaneously, you've got a different problem.
All we know from the very limited info you have provided is that you are having an insulation failure that's leading to a visible spark.
This can be breakdown of air insulation (in which case you have inadequate spacing between components for the voltage differential between these parts), breakdown across the surface of an insulating material (whatever you have your MMC caps mounted to), etc.
So, once again, please post some well-focused close-up photos of the area where the you believe the spark is occurring. It's likely that the root cause will be very apparent to those on this forum who are familiar with high-voltage circuitry.
EDIT: In your earlier post, you stated:
"The spark gap inst firing, the terry filter inst firing, the NST is on, everything is grounded, all my connections are connected tight and connected right."
What is "inst"??
Did you mean "isn't (as in the spark gap IS NOT firing, and the Terry filter safety gaps ARE NOT firing?) Or did you mean that NEITHER the spark gap of the safety gaps are firing?
If your new multi-segment spark gap IS NOT firing, you've got some other problem.
If BOTH your spark gap AND your safety gaps are firing simultaneously, you've got a different problem.
PLEASE CLARIFY EXACTLY WHAT YOU MEAN
Herr Zapp
Sorry what I meant was that the new segmented spark gap is not firing and neither is the terry filter gap. I can hear the transformer turning on though. But nothing is firing. Ill see If i have some close up pictures already of the MMC tank bank.
The Caps are mounted to a polypropylene base. Basically just a plastic board.
I did forget to mention that I did try to turn it on a couple times and nothing happened at all when other times a spark wouldZSE come from the MMC tank bank. But could hear the transformer on every time
And yes the spark gap is NOT firing at all.
The picture below is the best picture I have at the moment until I get off work. Ive blown the image up some when you click on it.
The terminal closest to the bottom left hand corner is where I believe its coming from, But its coming from one of the two terminals on that side. The caps have about a 2" spacing between each row also.
Can you post a close pic of where the sparks came from ? ____________________
And about powering your fans, I just thought there are tiny 12V 25W SMPS like this one, they are really small and look nice :
This is the other new PS I did pick up. Its a 12v 2amp PS. But I dont think its powerful enough to power my fan cause it wasn't turning on. Ill have to get a bigger one.
Registered Member #3806
Joined: Sat Apr 02 2011, 09:20PM
Location: France
Posts: 259
IRISHLUCK wrote ...
This is the other new PS I did pick up. Its a 12v 2amp PS. But I dont think its powerful enough to power my fan cause it wasn't turning on. Ill have to get a bigger one.
Hmm, does the PSU turns on when unloaded ? If yes check its output voltage. And have a close look at your fans, their wattage is probably written.
Registered Member #480
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 07:08PM
Location: North America
Posts: 644
IR -
If you've no spark at your spark gap, you've got yet another problem. I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that you have your primary circuit connected up properly, and that you've not set your spark gap so wide that your transformer voltage is insufficient to jump the gap.
Just because you hear your NST humming doesn't mean that it's generating any output voltage (or adequate output voltage).
So, first thing is to make sure that your transformer is still alive. Disconnect your primary wiring from the transformer's HV bushings, and connect a small, stiff piece of wire (like a straightened paper clip, a piece of solid copper wire, etc) to each HV bushing, and form each wire so the free end is about 3/8" from the transformer's metal case. Power up the NST for a few seconds, and make sure that you get a healthy, continuous arc from EACH wire to the NST case.
Perform this test, and if you get a healthy arc from each bushing, then your transformer's OK.
Reconnect each of your primary circuit's wires to the transformer's bushings, and carefully trace your wiring from one bushing through the entire primary circuit, looking for a either a short circuit, or an open circuit.
If your transformer's OK, but you get no activity at your main spark gap, then either you've got your gap set WAY too wide, or you have something connected up incorrectly in your primary circuit.
Close your safety gaps down to 3/8", and power up again. If you don't get continuous arcing at the safety gaps, then you've somehow shorted your NST by some error in your Terry filter or your primary circuit.
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First time Tesla builder, Terry Filter caps popping?
