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Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
Ahhh, sounds just like me! Every time i built something quick and ugly it works, but when i try to refine it like adding an interrupter to sstc's or making a PCB it doesn't work.
Everything looks like it is hooked up as far as i can tell, my guess is that either there is a bad connection you cannot see, or some component is dead. I would advise you take it all apart (i know you really don't want to, but i am sure you could get it to work if you try again) and test all of the components, then rebuild.
If you could etch a PCB, that would be more reliable, or if you have some copper clad and a dremel you could make a very ghetto circuit board by cutting traces. Also, point to point circuits seem to be pretty popular, every working ZVS driver i have had was point to point.
Registered Member #3114
Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608
yep its connected. This is bugging me so much the circuit is perfect, well at least looks so. what would cause a pulse oscillation and a shorted power?
Registered Member #3114
Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608
in these pictures is a homemade secondary i wound, i have tested it with other drivers and it worked, so i know its not shorted. My winding are going in the same direction. I dont have another pc board yet and i dont think remaking it on another board will help because probably one of the parts are bad and i will just end up wasting my time but if someone can find something i am missing that would be incredible helpful.
edit: it only "sparks when its connected to power(sort of like a short) when the is a load". My damn brain....
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Well, it looks ok. I would desolder the parts and test them with a multimeter. All parts can be tested with a standard multimeter (well except the inductance of the inductor).
Registered Member #3114
Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608
did you see the edit to the last post. (sigh) There has to be something on the board, nothing gets hot unless there is a load. any ideas on that?
Edit: I think they gave me the wrong resistor values for my 470 ohm resistor. If the were the case the positive power is only going through the inductor which is beyond me but is some how shorting the battery. I looked closely and i think the colors are either red blue green or yellow value green. which either way is in the mega ohms so that might be it.
Registered Member #3114
Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608
I used my multimeter to check those 470 ohm resistors and turns out the one the right which is subsequently the one that gets hot, the other one (on the left fet) has a reading of... wait for it....0.000000000ohms. I will replace it and update later.
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
I think you used to much solder and there is a miss wire and or a busted component. Hear are some zvs's I built. The 12v zeners I changed ti 18v so the fets will turn on harder. I also added some ZVS's to the gates and drains of the igbt's to ground because I used this to charge a marx. I also put the primary cap as close as pausible to the primary coil to increase the cirulation current at resonance. once you get it to oscillate adding or subtracting caps will change the ceroristic of the output spark. The high current or high voltage mode. the typs of caps that I found work best is polypropelene like snubber caps. An exalent build site that I found is this link.
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Easy ZVS flyback driver question
