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James

Tue Apr 19 2011, 04:49PM

Registered Member #3610 Joined: Thu Jan 13 2011, 03:29AM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 506

You could add a switch to disable the interruptor after the coil is already running. It's kinda nice to have it there so you can play with it, but being able to turn it off would be nice too.

I played around with this some more last night and by reducing the primary turns and setting a pie tin on the top as a makeshift topload I got the sparks quite a bit larger, then I arced through the plastic insulating the primary from the secondary and ruined the base of the secondary :( At least it's close enough to the bottom that I should be able to cut off the lowest inch or so and still have a good secondary.

ZakWolf

Wed Apr 20 2011, 01:29AM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

So could some one show me where I will need this switch, that would be very helpful. I am going to use 940uf to filter the AC so if I disable the interrupter will i still get those VVTC looking arcs? Last thing, I thought there was a CW mode for this driver, as in turning the pots down i think, to make it as continues as possible.

James

Wed Apr 20 2011, 05:23PM

Registered Member #3610 Joined: Thu Jan 13 2011, 03:29AM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 506

Easiest way is probably adding a ~10k resistor between pin 3 of the 555 and the enable input of the mosfet drivers, then add a switch to pull enable either to Vcc or Ground depending on whether enable is active high or active low, I don't recall. The resistor will protect the 555 and let you force the enable. You could also put a SPDT switch on the enable, allowing it to be connected either to the 555 or to Vcc/Gnd.

With the interruptor disabled the coil will run CW, I think you would have to remove the bulk filter capacitor(s) entirely to make it look and sound like a VTTC. I was able to get similar looking sparks by fiddling with the interruptor, although it doesn't sound nearly as nice.

ZakWolf

Wed Apr 20 2011, 10:29PM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

I think I will mess around with interrupter and see what i can get. My board etching kit will be here most likely on Friday, i just hope thepresensitized boards will be big enough.

James

Wed Apr 20 2011, 10:58PM

Registered Member #3610 Joined: Thu Jan 13 2011, 03:29AM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 506

I know you can get them in a 4x6" size, which is big enough for two of the layouts I originally posted if I remember correctly.

When doing photo etching, make sure you get the printout of the pattern the right way around, it should go ink-side against the PCB. Lay a piece of glass or something over it to make sure it's held down tightly, Most of those kits say to print on transparencies but I actually had better results using tracing paper. I've since switched to direct toner transfer though as the blank copper clad is SO much cheaper. $12.99 for a 14"x18" sheet at Vetco.

ZakWolf

Wed Apr 20 2011, 11:39PM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

Wow ok I will check that out an also try some tracing paper. I cant wait to put this together I am jonesing, I haven't built anything now for awhile. The coil i want to use is 2 inch dia by, i think 14 or 15 inch tall, its more than a foot. Will that work ok?

ZakWolf

Mon May 09 2011, 10:43PM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

So i have been waiting about a month now for my board etching kit, just to find out my money was refunded and the order was canceled not long after it was made. :| They said it was because of alaska's hazmat laws, i have the 3m transparency paper a brand new printer and all the parts, i have just been waiting on the board. Any one have any idea how i can order the pre-sensitized boards and get the developer and etchent?

James

Tue May 10 2011, 12:44AM

Registered Member #3610 Joined: Thu Jan 13 2011, 03:29AM
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 506

Where were you trying to order them from? I've bought them at Vetco in the past and ordered them from various suppliers online. As I recall, diluted sodium hydroxide will work as developer, it's the main component of Draino.

As for the coil, I found recently that bypassing the capacitor in the interruptor makes the coil run CW, so it can be done. With the 420uF filter capacitor in mine I get a bit of 60Hz buzz in the streamers but it's far quieter than with the interruptor going. My current setup draws just under 600W like this.

ZakWolf

Tue May 10 2011, 01:28AM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

thanks, i will look there, i think i was getting ripped off anyways.

so you just bypassing the filter cap when you want VTTC arcs, I could just add a switch?

ZakWolf

Mon May 30 2011, 10:17PM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

So after boxing up my tesla coil and setting it aside, I found a store that sells the developer etchant and a lot of various board sizes. I am going to make up the board today and finish it up tomorrow hopefully :)

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