Welcome
Username or Email:

Password:


Missing Code




[ ]
[ ]
Online
  • Guests: 51
  • Members: 0
  • Newest Member: omjtest
  • Most ever online: 396
    Guests: 396, Members: 0 on 12 Jan : 12:51
Members Birthdays:
One birthday today, congrats!
RoV IW3IPD (62)


Next birthdays
01/13 Dr. Dark Current (35)
01/13 Bob J (72)
01/13 si2030 (61)
Contact
If you need assistance, please send an email to forum at 4hv dot org. To ensure your email is not marked as spam, please include the phrase "4hv help" in the subject line. You can also find assistance via IRC, at irc.shadowworld.net, room #hvcomm.
Support 4hv.org!
Donate:
4hv.org is hosted on a dedicated server. Unfortunately, this server costs and we rely on the help of site members to keep 4hv.org running. Please consider donating. We will place your name on the thanks list and you'll be helping to keep 4hv.org alive and free for everyone. Members whose names appear in red bold have donated recently. Green bold denotes those who have recently donated to keep the server carbon neutral.


Special Thanks To:
  • Aaron Holmes
  • Aaron Wheeler
  • Adam Horden
  • Alan Scrimgeour
  • Andre
  • Andrew Haynes
  • Anonymous000
  • asabase
  • Austin Weil
  • barney
  • Barry
  • Bert Hickman
  • Bill Kukowski
  • Blitzorn
  • Brandon Paradelas
  • Bruce Bowling
  • BubeeMike
  • Byong Park
  • Cesiumsponge
  • Chris F.
  • Chris Hooper
  • Corey Worthington
  • Derek Woodroffe
  • Dalus
  • Dan Strother
  • Daniel Davis
  • Daniel Uhrenholt
  • datasheetarchive
  • Dave Billington
  • Dave Marshall
  • David F.
  • Dennis Rogers
  • drelectrix
  • Dr. John Gudenas
  • Dr. Spark
  • E.TexasTesla
  • eastvoltresearch
  • Eirik Taylor
  • Erik Dyakov
  • Erlend^SE
  • Finn Hammer
  • Firebug24k
  • GalliumMan
  • Gary Peterson
  • George Slade
  • GhostNull
  • Gordon Mcknight
  • Graham Armitage
  • Grant
  • GreySoul
  • Henry H
  • IamSmooth
  • In memory of Leo Powning
  • Jacob Cash
  • James Howells
  • James Pawson
  • Jeff Greenfield
  • Jeff Thomas
  • Jesse Frost
  • Jim Mitchell
  • jlr134
  • Joe Mastroianni
  • John Forcina
  • John Oberg
  • John Willcutt
  • Jon Newcomb
  • klugesmith
  • Leslie Wright
  • Lutz Hoffman
  • Mads Barnkob
  • Martin King
  • Mats Karlsson
  • Matt Gibson
  • Matthew Guidry
  • mbd
  • Michael D'Angelo
  • Mikkel
  • mileswaldron
  • mister_rf
  • Neil Foster
  • Nick de Smith
  • Nick Soroka
  • nicklenorp
  • Nik
  • Norman Stanley
  • Patrick Coleman
  • Paul Brodie
  • Paul Jordan
  • Paul Montgomery
  • Ped
  • Peter Krogen
  • Peter Terren
  • PhilGood
  • Richard Feldman
  • Robert Bush
  • Royce Bailey
  • Scott Fusare
  • Scott Newman
  • smiffy
  • Stella
  • Steven Busic
  • Steve Conner
  • Steve Jones
  • Steve Ward
  • Sulaiman
  • Thomas Coyle
  • Thomas A. Wallace
  • Thomas W
  • Timo
  • Torch
  • Ulf Jonsson
  • vasil
  • Vaxian
  • vladi mazzilli
  • wastehl
  • Weston
  • William Kim
  • William N.
  • William Stehl
  • Wesley Venis
The aforementioned have contributed financially to the continuing triumph of 4hv.org. They are deserving of my most heartfelt thanks.
Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
« Previous topic | Next topic »   

How to make ball lighting . . .

first  2 3 4 5 
Move Thread LAN_403
Marko
Sat Jun 10 2006, 09:08PM
Marko Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
1) try replacing the toroidal electrode with a circular NIB magnet, with a glass disk over the centre.


I guess you'd need a steady flow of current for a 'vortex' effect to occur, not just a cloud of plasma.
Everything would last too short and happen in small area of tube so I don't think magnet would have any effect.

2) replace the ceramic electrode with a thin glass tube.


Tube needs to be porous and watery, in order to gain relatively low ohmic resistance.
It seems that vapour from inside of the tube actually creates plasma. (I guess again)

Glass tube would just shatter when voltage breaks it down, letting the water in.


Back to top
Terry Fritz
Sun Jun 11 2006, 03:31AM
Terry Fritz Registered Member #393 Joined: Tue Apr 18 2006, 12:30AM
Location:
Posts: 297
Hi,

I think I got all the stuff to go visit the big capaitor. I tested it tonight but was still getting 400 amps with the porus ceramic tube and all:

Link2

The tube is just 3/8 diameter chalk milled and drilled:

Link2

Link2

Link2

Chalk is very water permiable, easy to machine, very cheap, and easy to get. I have seven of them made so we'll see how it goes...

Cheers,

Terry
Back to top
HV Enthusiast
Sun Jun 11 2006, 03:40AM
HV Enthusiast Registered Member #15 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Wow, didn't think so many people would take this experiment so seriously! Looks like all kinds of new toys to play with in the last few months (the SISG, ball lightning, etc...)

Good luck and be sure to take some cool pics if you get it working!!!
Back to top
Marko
Sun Jun 11 2006, 05:20PM
Marko Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
How are you going to stop the water entering the chalk tube?
Bunch of hotglue or something? smile
Back to top
Terry Fritz
Mon Jun 12 2006, 06:15AM
Terry Fritz Registered Member #393 Joined: Tue Apr 18 2006, 12:30AM
Location:
Posts: 297
Hi,

We gave it a try tonight. Due to time and equipment we were only able to really fire once at 5400V at 60e-6 Farad. It made a big orange flash but no real fireball yet. The chalk tube blew apart but not terribly violently or loud. We were at 875 joules and the water seems to take most of the "bang" out of it.

A strong small ceramic tube could probably survive the shock. We were thinking a ceramic standoff could have the glazing ground off for it. The tube is probably very well sealed at the bottom but still allowed to fill with water. The top of the tube is probably just at the surface of the water. McMaster or Ohmega might have unglazed tubes too.

The magnitude of the flash seemed about what one would expect. If it were 7X more, that would probably be about right to match the pictures and movie of the real one.

So we seemed real close but did not have it quite right yet. The cap bank could go up to 18kJ if it had too in the future.

One real problem is the SISG. If fired perfectly "once" but I never stopped to think what 800+ joules might do to it. dead All the IGBTs are shorted. Seems 100X its pulse rating is "too high". cheesey Easy to fix, but that leaves us with no reliable switch for the fireball thing... Don't know how to solve that yet.

Cheers,

Terry
Back to top
Steve Ward
Mon Jun 12 2006, 07:18AM
Steve Ward Registered Member #146 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:21AM
Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 1055
Easy to fix, but that leaves us with no reliable switch for the fireball thing... Don't know how to solve that yet.


You have the tools to make a very nice HV relay type switch. There is nothing wrong with big copper electrodes coming within .01" of eachother and stopping smile. My 5kJ quarter shrinker has been using 2" diameter copper end caps as electrodes. The trick is to not let them touch, but get really close. My switch needs at least 1700V to fire, but thats not a real problem. Im all for silicon, but sometimes it just doesnt cut it!
Back to top
Marko
Mon Jun 12 2006, 08:10AM
Marko Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
We gave it a try tonight. Due to time and equipment we were only able to really fire once at 5400V at 60e-6 Farad. It made a big orange flash but no real fireball yet. The chalk tube blew apart but not terribly violently or loud. We were at 875 joules and the water seems to take most of the "bang" out of it.


Yeah, I saw it in a pic.
I actually wonder how was there any flash when chalk was filled with water.
I don't know if this was OK:



A glass beaker filled with salt water contains two protruding electrodes, one of which being insulated from the surrounding water by a clay tube.

Flashover from the water enables the current to enter the clay tube, where it causes the water contained there to evaporate.


As I could figure out you shouldn't let the electorde contact water any way, but just let the chalk get wet (and electrode must not be touching it, I guess)

When you fire the cap a big scary arc will form and due to 'jacobs-ladder' effect (and possibly railgun effect) spray outwards like a goop of plasma.

Maybe I'm wrong, maybe you just need more energy, etc. (the text isn't describng the thing well anyway)...
Back to top
Terry Fritz
Mon Jun 12 2006, 04:24PM
Terry Fritz Registered Member #393 Joined: Tue Apr 18 2006, 12:30AM
Location:
Posts: 297
You have the tools to make a very nice HV relay type switch. There is nothing wrong with big copper electrodes coming within .01" of eachother and stopping .


Yes!! That would be fine for this!! Thanks wink

Bill Beaty also posted earlier info on all this at:

Link2

Cheers,

Terry

Back to top
Marko
Mon Jun 12 2006, 04:35PM
Marko Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
Doh, and I get ignored as usual.

Nobody thinks nothing about both electrodes just being under water, shouldn't there be more arcing in the tube?





Back to top
Terry Fritz
Mon Jun 12 2006, 05:46PM
Terry Fritz Registered Member #393 Joined: Tue Apr 18 2006, 12:30AM
Location:
Posts: 297
Hi,

I assume the tube is filled with water. I would think that the discharge would be incredibly loud like a coin crusher and the "explosion" enourmous if it were not for water in the tube absorbing most of the sound and thermal energy of the 6000 joule discharge. I have not read Bill B's post in detail yet to see if it has clues on this. 6000 joules is about twice the energy of a 30-06 rifle. I would think that type of air arc would knock everyone in the room off their feet!!!

Ours was filled with water and given that the tube broke and the amount of energy we were using, the "flash" we got "looked" just right. Not a plasma ball but with 7X the energy the "bang" would be about the same as in the movie.

In water, I must admit things are very "tame". However, we were all far back with ear/eye protection since if it "goes bad" it could go VERY bad!! We sort of dilibertaly played at lower power for now since mistakes get bad at 6000 joles... Many details need to be figured out for sure first.

BTW - Use a plastic bucket not glass. The glass looks cute but not a real good idea... Also water does splash around a bit so cover the HV stuff with plastic sheet. We kept hearing stuff "fizzing" on charging for the second try. That was no doubt water on something HV burning off wink

Epoxy can hold the electrod in the tube easily but might have to have a bunch ready incase one breaks. I wonder if just "wood" would work fine too...

Cheers,

Terry
Back to top
first  2 3 4 5 

Moderator(s): Chris Russell, Noelle, Alex, Tesladownunder, Dave Marshall, Dave Billington, Bjørn, Steve Conner, Wolfram, Kizmo, Mads Barnkob

Go to:

Powered by e107 Forum System
 
Legal Information
This site is powered by e107, which is released under the GNU GPL License. All work on this site, except where otherwise noted, is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 License. By submitting any information to this site, you agree that anything submitted will be so licensed. Please read our Disclaimer and Policies page for information on your rights and responsibilities regarding this site.