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4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Check design of first spark gap coil?

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dithersail
Sat Jan 01 2011, 08:28PM Print
dithersail Registered Member #3515 Joined: Wed Dec 15 2010, 03:05AM
Location:
Posts: 11
Appreciate any input and double checking! Here's our design. We did use TeslaMap and stole liberally from designs we found on the 'net.


NST's 4 15kv in parallel, 110ma total (need to test, will adjust math if current output is different)
appx 1700 watts output


Primary:

.25" diameter copper tubing
10 turns, spacing appx .25"
hole diamater 9"
inductance appx 48uH
0 degrees incline angle (flat coil)


Terry filter:

16 panasonic 1800v surge absorbers
2 1k Ohm 100 watt wire power resistors
12 10M Ohm 1/2 watt carbon film resistors
12 .033uF 1600 V
2 Safety gaps

EMI and RFI filter on input side of NST's if I can find one......

Secondary:

30" Secondary winding height
6.7" diameter (6"PVC)
Appx: 1100 turns 22 AWG transformer wire (1900 feet, 3.6 LBS)
Inductance appx 37mH Capacitance appx 12 pF

Top Load:

6" diameter (flexible duct)
24" Total diameter


MMC:

Design for 2x safety (30Kv)

30 uF total needed

3 parallel strings of 15 (45 total)
of Cornell-Dubilier CDE 942C20P15K-F

each shunted with 1M Ohm 1 watt metal film bleeder resistors for
safety - I am very unsure of this, can metal film resistors handle
2Kv? I looked around and can't find a multiple mega ohm power resistor
that can handle that kind of voltage so I can use one for each string
but I understand they exist.


Spark gap:

3/8" tungsten carbide rods on heatsink (have a machinist buddy making
them) with a shop vac to quench gap.


Plan to build structure mostly from Lexan. Will add strike rail. Going
to live dangerously and not buy a new variac - mine won't handle 1800
watts.

Fire away, are we close?


Jim

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quicksilver
Sat Jan 01 2011, 08:51PM
quicksilver Registered Member #1408 Joined: Fri Mar 21 2008, 03:49PM
Location: Oracle, AZ
Posts: 679
She's going to be LOUD! A single spark gap will be loud enough to almost deafen you unless it's in an enclosure of some type. Considered a multiple SG?
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dithersail
Sat Jan 01 2011, 09:40PM
dithersail Registered Member #3515 Joined: Wed Dec 15 2010, 03:05AM
Location:
Posts: 11
quicksilver wrote ...

She's going to be LOUD! A single spark gap will be loud enough to almost deafen you unless it's in an enclosure of some type. Considered a multiple SG?



Isn't loud part of the fun? amazed

Might be interesting to measure it's sound pressure level. I had planned to put the primary gap in the enclosure under the coil. But could have multiple gaps - would this make tuning more difficult?
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Herr Zapp
Sat Jan 01 2011, 10:13PM
Herr Zapp Registered Member #480 Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 07:08PM
Location: North America
Posts: 644
dithersail -

Two points:
1. If you are using standard 6" PVC SDR pipe, the actual OD is 6.625". Using 6.7" will introduce a small error in your wire length and resonant frequency calculations.

2. Your target tank capacitor value for a 15KV, 120ma NST power supply with a static spark gap is .03uF, not 30uF.

3. The 15KV output rating on the NSTs is the RMS voltage, not the peak voltage. Multiply the RMS voltage by 1.414 to get the peak voltage. 15,000 X 1.414 = 21,210 volts. So your individual strings of 15 caps only provide a voltage safety factor of 1.4X, not 2X. See the MMC design chart at: Link2

3. Your bleeder resistor value is incorrect They should be a minimum of 10 meg ohm, not 1 meg ohm.

4. Your concern about bleeder resistor voltage rating is valid. Use the 1/2 watt Vishay VR37 resistors, 10 meg ohms (Allied Electronics, etc.). These resistors have a much higher voltage rating (3,500V) vs the 300 or 500 volt rating of common metal-film resistors. I use two in series across each cap as this gives enough lead length to connect directly across the cap leads while still maintaining a reasonable standoff distance (1/4") between the resistors and the cap body.

5. Not sure what you mean by "transformer wire", you want to use enameled "magnet wire", preferably double or triple build insulation thickness.

6. Use of a variac is HIGHLY recommended for initial tuning, especially for this level of input power. You really don't want to hit a completely untuned coil with full line voltage. If you have access to an RF signal generator and oscilloscope to at least set initial tuning, you'll reduce the risk of secondary flashover ("racing arcs") that can destroy the secondary.

7. The noise from the output streamers will be greater than the noise from the spark gap. When the coil is correctly tuned, tuned the spark gap generates a sharp sizzle, not a gunshot.

I suggest that you cross-check all your calcs using JAVATC, also available at the link provided above.

You might consider building a hinged enclosure for your spark gap, not so much to reduce the sound level but to shield the light output. Obviously you'll want to take photos of the coil in operation, and the extremely intense radiation from the spark gap (nearly identical to an arc welder) will disrupt still and video photography.

Herr Zapp
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dithersail
Sun Jan 02 2011, 03:33AM
dithersail Registered Member #3515 Joined: Wed Dec 15 2010, 03:05AM
Location:
Posts: 11
Herr Zapp wrote ...

dithersail -

Two points:
1. If you are using standard 6" PVC SDR pipe, the actual OD is 6.625". Using 6.7" will introduce a small error in your wire length and resonant frequency calculations.

got it, will recalculate....

2. Your target tank capacitor value for a 15KV, 120ma NST power supply with a static spark gap is .03uF, not 30uF.

Oops, mistyped.......

3. The 15KV output rating on the NSTs is the RMS voltage, not the peak voltage. Multiply the RMS voltage by 1.414 to get the peak voltage. 15,000 X 1.414 = 21,210 volts. So your individual strings of 15 caps only provide a voltage safety factor of 1.4X, not 2X. See the MMC design chart at: Link2

Got it. Are these caps OK at 1.4x?

3. Your bleeder resistor value is incorrect They should be a minimum of 10 meg ohm, not 1 meg ohm.

Thanks I was unclear about this.

4. Your concern about bleeder resistor voltage rating is valid. Use the 1/2 watt Vishay VR37 resistors, 10 meg ohms (Allied Electronics, etc.). These resistors have a much higher voltage rating (3,500V) vs the 300 or 500 volt rating of common metal-film resistors. I use two in series across each cap as this gives enough lead length to connect directly across the cap leads while still maintaining a reasonable standoff distance (1/4") between the resistors and the cap body.

OK got it, I'll order those - I was going to mount the tank caps on a sheet of lexan drilled for the leads, with the resistors underneath on the other side of the lexan......


5. Not sure what you mean by "transformer wire", you want to use enameled "magnet wire", preferably double or triple build insulation thickness.

Yes, magnet wire - can you suggest a good source?

6. Use of a variac is HIGHLY recommended for initial tuning, especially for this level of input power. You really don't want to hit a completely untuned coil with full line voltage. If you have access to an RF signal generator and oscilloscope to at least set initial tuning, you'll reduce the risk of secondary flashover ("racing arcs") that can destroy the secondary.

I'll see what I can get my hands on - I do have an oscilloscope but not a RF generator....

7. The noise from the output streamers will be greater than the noise from the spark gap. When the coil is correctly tuned, tuned the spark gap generates a sharp sizzle, not a gunshot.

I suggest that you cross-check all your calcs using JAVATC, also available at the link provided above.

You might consider building a hinged enclosure for your spark gap, not so much to reduce the sound level but to shield the light output. Obviously you'll want to take photos of the coil in operation, and the extremely intense radiation from the spark gap (nearly identical to an arc welder) will disrupt still and video photography.


All great advice, I really appreciate it. I'd rather be successful first try........

Herr Zapp


Jim
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Herr Zapp
Sun Jan 02 2011, 06:08AM
Herr Zapp Registered Member #480 Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 07:08PM
Location: North America
Posts: 644
dithersail -

All good.

For your magnet wire, there are many sources. Since you are going to put a fair amoint of effort into this coil, I'd recommend either Ham swap meet or spending the money for new commercial magnet wire. Be very careful of eBay "hobby wire", as this may be commercial magnet wire that has failed the insulation pinhole test or has out-of-spec insulation thickness. The stuff I've found at Ham swap meets us usually first quality industrial surplus or overstock.

The C-D 942 caps will survive with a 1.4X voltage safety factor, but more margin is better. You are going to have a fair investment in the cost of the caps, so I'd be very conservative. Four strings of 20 caps each is pretty conservative, but will set you back a few more $$.

I'd recomend NOT directly mounting the caps on a drilled piece of polycarbonate, or any other plastic. I've seen several MMCs built this way that "failed" because of surface tracking (insulation breakdown) across the surface of the plastic. Much better is to mount the caps on "turret standoffs", or even home-made standoffs constructed from 1" threaded nylon standoffs mounted on a 3/8" thick plastic panel. High density polyethylene is best from the point of insulation performance, but acrylic, polycarbonate, or polystyrene will work.


Herr Zapp
S

S
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dithersail
Sun Jan 02 2011, 05:44PM
dithersail Registered Member #3515 Joined: Wed Dec 15 2010, 03:05AM
Location:
Posts: 11
Thanks for the pic - very informative I can emulate. I do have access to a supply of HDP. I don't know of any ham swap meets in our area - I'll ask around. Maybe I can find a source online.

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dithersail
Sun Jan 02 2011, 07:13PM
dithersail Registered Member #3515 Joined: Wed Dec 15 2010, 03:05AM
Location:
Posts: 11
Is this wire adequate/good?

Link2
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ScotchTapeLord
Sun Jan 02 2011, 11:46PM
ScotchTapeLord Registered Member #1875 Joined: Sun Dec 21 2008, 06:36PM
Location:
Posts: 635
I got wire from magnet4less once. I got the 32 gauge, heavy build, and as I was winding, I noticed that the wire was not all the same color. And I kept finding these hard lumps on the wire, which when picked off, I found compromised the insulation! Of course, this could only happen after I was 75% done with my coil...

So I left a very poor review, which seems to have disappeared from their site! Very honest and professional, no?

Maybe it was a problem with the very fine wire, or maybe all their stuff is crap, all I know is that I'm never buying from them again.

I will be winding with wire from Parawire for my big coil in the next few days. I think it's 26 gauge or so. I believe Arcstarter has had good experiences with this company, and from what I can see with the wire on the spool, it looks fantastic! Will report back with final results when I actually finish with the stuff.
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dithersail
Mon Jan 03 2011, 12:08AM
dithersail Registered Member #3515 Joined: Wed Dec 15 2010, 03:05AM
Location:
Posts: 11
Inexpensive too!

Link2
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