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Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Coil not working

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dingo27
Thu Nov 18 2010, 12:09AM
dingo27 Registered Member #890 Joined: Tue Jul 10 2007, 10:06PM
Location: Slovakia
Posts: 180
100 seems little too much for that "design"

use smaller primary, it is just too big for 12V. Try 1cm bigger diameter that your secondary, or just wind isolated cable on secondary.
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Ryan
Thu Nov 18 2010, 03:43AM
Ryan Registered Member #1606 Joined: Fri Jul 25 2008, 02:40PM
Location:
Posts: 71
What would a board like that typically cost to put together? It is well put together, nice soldering and connections.

I will try a primary wrapped right on the secondary and see how it goes.
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Goodchild
Thu Nov 18 2010, 06:17AM
Goodchild Registered Member #2292 Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
Ok so after looking at the design for a couple of minutes I finally understand it.

Ok here is the deal, you need that transformer on the board (T3) you also need to
supply the board with 60Hz AC (into J3 and J4). The AC input at J3 and J4 supply both
the control logic and also a doubler circuit for the half bridge. You can't supply that board
with DC it will not work correctly a doubler will only work with AC.

ok once you get the transformer (T3) put in and you supply the board with 60Hz AC you need
to freed the wire at the bottom of the secondary threw the feedback transformer (the blue wire
transformer on the board). and then attach the end to a RF ground (such as a cold water pipe).

As said before you will also need to wind that primary a bit titer on the secondary.
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ScotchTapeLord
Thu Nov 18 2010, 01:44PM
ScotchTapeLord Registered Member #1875 Joined: Sun Dec 21 2008, 06:36PM
Location:
Posts: 635
That just leaves the question... is there a bridge or are those the push/pull GDT drivers attached to that heatsink?
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Goodchild
Thu Nov 18 2010, 03:17PM
Goodchild Registered Member #2292 Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
From what I can see there is a half bridge, and also a doubling circuit.
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ScotchTapeLord
Thu Nov 18 2010, 05:41PM
ScotchTapeLord Registered Member #1875 Joined: Sun Dec 21 2008, 06:36PM
Location:
Posts: 635
I concur... I think I see the push/pull bjts below the heat sinks.
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Ryan
Fri Nov 19 2010, 12:11AM
Ryan Registered Member #1606 Joined: Fri Jul 25 2008, 02:40PM
Location:
Posts: 71
How will I hook 120 AC into the board with no transformer? I assume I will need to install a transformer for this to work correctly? Will I get any feedback from the mains into my house? I don't want to see any electronics explode on me

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ScotchTapeLord
Fri Nov 19 2010, 12:51AM
ScotchTapeLord Registered Member #1875 Joined: Sun Dec 21 2008, 06:36PM
Location:
Posts: 635
ScotchTapeLord wrote ...

You can use your 12V to directly to the electronics past the diodes like you are, but you'll need the mains AC on J3 and J4.


The rest of that post was pretty important, too.
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Goodchild
Fri Nov 19 2010, 03:57AM
Goodchild Registered Member #2292 Joined: Fri Aug 14 2009, 05:33PM
Location: The Wild West AKA Arizona
Posts: 795
If you do just power the logic electronics with DC make sure that you use more than 12VDC say 20VDC, because there is a 15Vreg in there that needs more than 12V.

Every thing you need to get that running is in ScotchTapeLord's and my post.
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Coronafix
Fri Nov 19 2010, 09:07AM
Coronafix Registered Member #160 Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 02:07AM
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 938
Can you supply some clearer photos of the board?
That should clear everything up.
What you will need is AC into the board as was mentioned, a step down transformer to supply the low voltage 12-16V, and I'd try about 6-8 turns primary only slightly larger than the secondary.
You will also need to bring the ground of the secondary back to the board so that the onboard CT can detect what frequency it is driving. The ground will need to also go out of the board to a good ground (water pipe).
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