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Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
My first parts made with Simplify3D, a program well worth its cost.
So far im real happy, still having a few kinks, but still well worth having this capability. These motor mounts are 7 grams in mass, 80% hollow ABS and cost 24 cents each, they take 41 minutes to fab. these parts are remarkably uniform in accuracy (0.02 inch) and also uniform in part to part accuracy. Problems so far (Simplify3D) :
- cant get the table and extruder to heat up together. the machine used to, but there must be a M code I don't see. - infill doesn't stack up in vertical shear webs, it stagers them out. Machine: -have one edge of part lifting still.
Here you can see the infill walls are staggered instead of vertically continuous. I don't know how to fix this yet.
B
C
D
E
I don't expect these holes to be perfect, but id like them to at least be round, and placed more where they should be, they tended to drift inward by 0.02 inches.
better few of mal-formed holes... I was always planning to drill them out to the final size, but I'd be nice if they were better than this.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
hen918 wrote ...
Does this help?
G21 ; set units to millimeters M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached M104 S200 ; set [extruder] temperature
M109 S200 ; wait for [extruder] temperature to be reached G90 ; use absolute coordinates G92 E0 M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G/M code isn't universal so it might be different for your printer (mine is a solidoodle 2 with a 6" bed)
yes, where did you find these g codes? Is there a master list somewhere hidden on the web? It seems like there would be buttons in simplify3d to do some of this...
Registered Member #49
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:05AM
Location: Bigass Pile of Penguins
Posts: 362
Even if the infill wasn't staggered, it still wouldn't form a real shear web as you want because it alternates orthogonal directions by layer.
You can use slic3r if you want to try "non staggered" rectilinear infill... but you won't notice any difference in strength. You could try hexagonal infill with slic3r too if you really want to waste your time nerding out over infill.
Registered Member #190
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567
Patrick wrote ...
hen918 wrote ...
Does this help?
G21 ; set units to millimeters M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached M104 S200 ; set [extruder] temperature
M109 S200 ; wait for [extruder] temperature to be reached G90 ; use absolute coordinates G92 E0 M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G/M code isn't universal so it might be different for your printer (mine is a solidoodle 2 with a 6" bed)
yes, where did you find these g codes? Is there a master list somewhere hidden on the web? It seems like there would be buttons in simplify3d to do some of this...
If you look up G-code on wikipedia there is a very long file with all the codes. What I do is manually heat the bed and when it is within 15F of the target I warm the extruder. I then, run the program off of disk.
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My Flash Forge Creator 3D Printer.
