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4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Have my bus caps died?

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nzoomed
Mon Nov 21 2016, 08:29AM
nzoomed Registered Member #54503 Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Hydron wrote ...

Link2

Appears that this is a tried and tested way of killing bricks (see link above)

OK, very interesting, at least its not just me!

Now ive got to wait for my IGBT replacement to arrive.
Im wondering if soldering directly to the IGBT is a better idea?
Either way, I dont like using cat5 cable for the GDT, but i dont think there is any better option, you just have to be careful when stripping the stuff.
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Finn Hammer
Mon Nov 21 2016, 08:54AM
Finn Hammer Registered Member #205 Joined: Sat Feb 18 2006, 11:59AM
Location: Skørping, Denmark
Posts: 741
Nzoomed,

When you strip the cat5 cable, it is difficult to avoid circumscribing a nick into the copper, and later on, this point is likely to break off.
One way to avoid this is, to solder a length of multistrand wire to the end of the cat5, and heatshrink that connection.
The benefit of this is, that the multistrand wire is flexible, and unlikely to transfer a bending momentum to the solid cat5 wire, therefore making it less prone to breaking.
Another benefit is, that you can colour code the gate wire to make it straightforward to phase the bridge.

Hope this helps.
Cheers, Finn Hammer
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Kizmo
Mon Nov 21 2016, 10:15AM
Kizmo Registered Member #599 Joined: Thu Mar 22 2007, 07:40PM
Location: Northern Finland, Rovaniemi
Posts: 624
Finn Hammer wrote ...

Nzoomed,

When you strip the cat5 cable, it is difficult to avoid circumscribing a nick into the copper, and later on, this point is likely to break off.
One way to avoid this is, to solder a length of multistrand wire to the end of the cat5, and heatshrink that connection.
The benefit of this is, that the multistrand wire is flexible, and unlikely to transfer a bending momentum to the solid cat5 wire, therefore making it less prone to breaking.
Another benefit is, that you can colour code the gate wire to make it straightforward to phase the bridge.

Hope this helps.
Cheers, Finn Hammer
I like to strip small single strand wires with my fingernails.

It works really well for normal PVC installation wire :D
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Hydron
Mon Nov 21 2016, 10:38AM
Hydron Registered Member #30656 Joined: Tue Jul 30 2013, 02:40AM
Location: UK
Posts: 208
You could also use stranded CAT5e (the stuff for patch cables). Less likely to run into issues with that (is what I use). Finn's suggestion is also good.
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Alex Yuan
Tue Nov 22 2016, 12:37AM
Alex  Yuan Registered Member #9614 Joined: Mon Jan 14 2013, 10:00PM
Location:
Posts: 44
Personally I have never used spade connectors on IGBT gates because 1. I didn't have any and 2. I don't trust them. I've just been soldering them directly. I've also been using solid CAT5e cables with no problems. Depending on the insulation type, even if you knick it while stripping it, when you solder the wire the insulation will shrink back a bit and you'll end up covering the knick with solder anyway so that wasn't ever an issue for me either.

How are you sourcing your IGBT's? I just checked eBay here in the USA and I can get some surplus for $25 a piece plus $8 shipping. I'm sure there's a way we could help you out so that you aren't paying 300NZD ($212 USD) for two CM300s.

Speaking of CM300's you can push them further than 750A... that's almost in spec even! I push my CM200s up to 900A at 100kHz...
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nzoomed
Tue Nov 22 2016, 04:29AM
nzoomed Registered Member #54503 Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Alex Yuan wrote ...

Personally I have never used spade connectors on IGBT gates because 1. I didn't have any and 2. I don't trust them. I've just been soldering them directly. I've also been using solid CAT5e cables with no problems. Depending on the insulation type, even if you knick it while stripping it, when you solder the wire the insulation will shrink back a bit and you'll end up covering the knick with solder anyway so that wasn't ever an issue for me either.

How are you sourcing your IGBT's? I just checked eBay here in the USA and I can get some surplus for $25 a piece plus $8 shipping. I'm sure there's a way we could help you out so that you aren't paying 300NZD ($212 USD) for two CM300s.

Speaking of CM300's you can push them further than 750A... that's almost in spec even! I push my CM200s up to 900A at 100kHz...
If you can provide me the link to one of those listings, that would be great!

I was searching for them on ebay (CM300DY-24H), and the cheapest ones i could find from china were around $98 USD.

I know there are a few variants in the CM300 series, and some have to be modified to work properly for TC use.
I think there is a 24F etc? the 24NFH i think need the modification inside.

Are you sure you are not referring to the 600V version (12H?) I know these are alot cheaper.


Anyway, thanks for everyone's suggestions, I too had been thinking of soldering stranded wire to the ends, and i think i will modify all the remaining connections this way and solder to the gates.

I had seen spade terminals used on other projects, and naturally thought that was a good idea.

There is stranded cat5/6 cable available, as is used in patch leads etc.
I was not sure if this stuff was suitable, i know from using the stranded stuff in the past that there is not much wire to play around with either.

As far as current goes, yes I know they can handle much more than 750A.
I actually want to upgrade the coil to take more, main thing is the MMC will need to be beefed up, it can only take about 850A max currently.
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Alex Yuan
Tue Nov 22 2016, 07:02PM
Alex  Yuan Registered Member #9614 Joined: Mon Jan 14 2013, 10:00PM
Location:
Posts: 44
Link2

Not the F version (you won't need to cut out the RTC!), but also not the NFH version (slower) but I don't think there's any issue with using them in a coil.
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Hydron
Tue Nov 22 2016, 09:30PM
Hydron Registered Member #30656 Joined: Tue Jul 30 2013, 02:40AM
Location: UK
Posts: 208
Alex Yuan wrote ...

Link2

Not the F version (you won't need to cut out the RTC!), but also not the NFH version (slower) but I don't think there's any issue with using them in a coil.

This is the seller i bought my MMC caps off (48x 2uF 1kV Aerovox snubbers). They couldn't ship to NZ but i got them sent via Youshop ( Link2 ) which cost about $100 but didn't have much other choice. They were nice and friendly and gave me an approximate size of the box before I hit "Buy Now".
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Alex Yuan
Tue Nov 22 2016, 10:14PM
Alex  Yuan Registered Member #9614 Joined: Mon Jan 14 2013, 10:00PM
Location:
Posts: 44
Hydron wrote ...

This is the seller i bought my MMC caps off (48x 2uF 1kV Aerovox snubbers). They couldn't ship to NZ but i got them sent via Youshop ( Link2 ) which cost about $100 but didn't have much other choice. They were nice and friendly and gave me an approximate size of the box before I hit "Buy Now".

Yup, I've bought snubber caps from them before too. As well as a bunch of electrolytics. No problems with them.
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Kizmo
Wed Nov 23 2016, 03:02PM
Kizmo Registered Member #599 Joined: Thu Mar 22 2007, 07:40PM
Location: Northern Finland, Rovaniemi
Posts: 624
I can offer same bricks (CM300DY-24H) from my collection at about same price too i you want :)
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