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4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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First DRSSTC; questions about dimensions

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nzoomed
Fri Sept 25 2015, 11:28AM
nzoomed Registered Member #54503 Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Anaesthetix wrote ...

Uspring wrote ...


@Anaesthitix:
Using the theory for voltage rise with a halfbridge at 325V (half bridge without doubler, so it switches 325V - 0V, other end of primary kept at 162,5V) gives me a little over 6KV after 10 full cycles. This would give me a max current of 850A with 15uH primary and Fres 75kHz. So if I switch to a full-bridge or a half-bridge with doubler, am I correct in saying that the voltage rating of the MMC would need to be doubled?
That would be the case if the primary would ramp up current for the full 10 cycles you assumed. If you wouldn't change the capacitance of the MMC, that would also imply doubling primary current. Usually arc loading limits primary current long before the 10 cycles end, but only if the coil is properly tuned. The trick is to tune the coil in such a way, that you won't hit the OCD. That or the OCD will also prevent the MMC from acquiring too much voltage.
Okay, thank you! I'll probably go for a doubler then, will do some tests on lower bus voltage anyway, to see how it behaves.

nzoomed wrote ...

That is the same size im going for in my coil too.

Should be easy to make with ducting, but does anyone know where can i get a spun one of these from?

Im thinking of making it myself, but dont think it will be easy.
I'll make my toroid from ducting. Always used that for my other coils, it looks and works great. If you try to spin one yourself, let me know how it worked out for you. It would be awesome to be able to make these yourself.

My mate has a wood lathe so he will be able to turn up a former and hopefully be able to shape a toroid on it.
I like the smooth look of an aluminium toroid and they are supposed to be better for breakout as you lust make one point at the top with a drawing pin etc.

I might have to settle for ducting for the time being though as its the cheapest and easiest option.
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Anaesthetix
Mon Sept 28 2015, 08:09PM
Anaesthetix Registered Member #54926 Joined: Mon Apr 27 2015, 07:18PM
Location: Limburg, the Netherlands
Posts: 6
nzoomed wrote ...

My mate has a wood lathe so he will be able to turn up a former and hopefully be able to shape a toroid on it.
I like the smooth look of an aluminium toroid and they are supposed to be better for breakout as you lust make one point at the top with a drawing pin etc.

I might have to settle for ducting for the time being though as its the cheapest and easiest option.
True, can't get anything better / more beautiful than a spun one. Would have gone for one too, if they weren't so expensive. Maybe in a later stage.

So, my CM300 brick got delivered today. Thought the F series had over current protection. Opened the brick to remove the protection, but I guess I thought wrong. Lots of dust in there, tried to remove it but that stuff is sticky..

1443470195 54926 FT173206 Imag0681


Bit offtopic maybe, but is anyone interested to see how the project progresses? If so, I'd be happy to post it here.
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Justin
Thu Oct 01 2015, 12:46PM
Justin Registered Member #46164 Joined: Wed May 07 2014, 08:16AM
Location: California, USA
Posts: 89
I think you should post it.
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Patric
Thu Oct 01 2015, 02:50PM
Patric Registered Member #2899 Joined: Wed Jun 02 2010, 06:31PM
Location: Deinze, Belgium
Posts: 254
Halfdead wrote ...

I think you should post it.

Me too.
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nzoomed
Thu Oct 01 2015, 07:55PM
nzoomed Registered Member #54503 Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Anaesthetix wrote ...

nzoomed wrote ...

My mate has a wood lathe so he will be able to turn up a former and hopefully be able to shape a toroid on it.
I like the smooth look of an aluminium toroid and they are supposed to be better for breakout as you lust make one point at the top with a drawing pin etc.

I might have to settle for ducting for the time being though as its the cheapest and easiest option.
True, can't get anything better / more beautiful than a spun one. Would have gone for one too, if they weren't so expensive. Maybe in a later stage.

So, my CM300 brick got delivered today. Thought the F series had over current protection. Opened the brick to remove the protection, but I guess I thought wrong. Lots of dust in there, tried to remove it but that stuff is sticky..

1443470195 54926 FT173206 Imag0681


Bit offtopic maybe, but is anyone interested to see how the project progresses? If so, I'd be happy to post it here.

Are the large toroids even available anywhere?
I cant see any over 300mm in diameter, i see loneoceans has some spun ones on his new twin set of coils that would be similar size to what im after.

Im thinking of adding a second toroid below to increase the capacitance as well as raising the height of the top toroid.
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Anaesthetix
Tue Oct 06 2015, 04:26PM
Anaesthetix Registered Member #54926 Joined: Mon Apr 27 2015, 07:18PM
Location: Limburg, the Netherlands
Posts: 6
Patric wrote ...

Halfdead wrote ...

I think you should post it.

Me too.
Allright, I'll be posting a topic in the projects section when I get some more parts and can start building the coil!

nzoomed wrote ...

Are the large toroids even available anywhere?
I cant see any over 300mm in diameter, i see loneoceans has some spun ones on his new twin set of coils that would be similar size to what im after.

Im thinking of adding a second toroid below to increase the capacitance as well as raising the height of the top toroid.
I haven't found any yet, only those small ones. A while ago I found someone who could make these on request, but I can't find him anymore. Maybe you could ask a metalworking business (am I saying this right?) if they could make one for you?

Another question, since I'm using relatively thin wire (32 AWG), would it be advisable to use a thicker wire for the secondary leads? I was thinking to attach a thicker wire at the end of the first and last turn.
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nzoomed
Wed Oct 07 2015, 05:49AM
nzoomed Registered Member #54503 Joined: Sun Feb 22 2015, 10:35PM
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 288
Anaesthetix wrote ...



nzoomed wrote ...

Are the large toroids even available anywhere?
I cant see any over 300mm in diameter, i see loneoceans has some spun ones on his new twin set of coils that would be similar size to what im after.

Im thinking of adding a second toroid below to increase the capacitance as well as raising the height of the top toroid.
I haven't found any yet, only those small ones. A while ago I found someone who could make these on request, but I can't find him anymore. Maybe you could ask a metalworking business (am I saying this right?) if they could make one for you?

Another question, since I'm using relatively thin wire (32 AWG), would it be advisable to use a thicker wire for the secondary leads? I was thinking to attach a thicker wire at the end of the first and last turn.


Ive spoken to a few metal businesses. I think i can get one made from alloy pipe in two half bends welded together, but their machinery can only bend up to 100mm pipe i think. Spinning is possible, but as far as im aware it can only be done with a former, which would be a one off job for them so very expensive, thats why im talking about doing it myself on my mates wood lathe.
Anyway, as far as wire goes, im using 30AWG on my coil and i simply heatshrink the ends and screw on a terminal, seems to work OK.
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Alex Yuan
Sat Oct 10 2015, 06:07AM
Alex  Yuan Registered Member #9614 Joined: Mon Jan 14 2013, 10:00PM
Location:
Posts: 44
32 should be okay. I used 34AWG on my 12cm x 40cm secondary and it gets a little warm after use.
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