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Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
WOW, that is really impressive... I hope you can manage to keep the oil inside the tank. Also, lets hope you don't manage to smoke those diodes since they are going to be impossible to replace...
As to the connector, would it be possible to solder in the wires and then pot the mess in some epoxy/rtv/etc to make sure it is waterproof?
I also do worry a little that as stuff heat up in there you will pressurise the tank, which is going to really test the quality of your seals...
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
Actually, the "floor" is the lid, so the transformer and rectifier is suspended from the lid rather than standing on the floor.
That is what I meant?
We are going to use standard N Clamp Plugs for RG213. The RG213 will probably be stripped of it`s outher shell, as well as the braid.
Yeah, I guess it would be OK considering it's on plastic, but don't you think a bushing would look neater? And are you sure that connector is oil-proof? (if everything is going to sink into oil... But I guess some silicone could fix that.
What about expansion of the oil? It is surely going to start leaking out unless it has a vent. If you wish to have no air in the chamber you should add a expansion tank on the top I guess.
Registered Member #205
Joined: Sat Feb 18 2006, 11:59AM
Location: Skørping, Denmark
Posts: 741
Dr. Arc flash wrote ...
Actually, the "floor" is the lid, so the transformer and rectifier is suspended from the lid rather than standing on the floor.
That is what I meant?
ok!
Dr. Arc flash wrote ...
We are going to use standard N Clamp Plugs for RG213. The RG213 will probably be stripped of it`s outher shell, as well as the braid.
Yeah, I guess it would be OK considering it's on plastic, but don't you think a bushing would look neater? And are you sure that connector is oil-proof? (if everything is going to sink into oil... But I guess some silicone could fix that.
Bushings would look neat, but I dislike having to use nuts and washers for these connections. Better with a bayonet style plug or in this case, a plug with tne threaded part attached.... The N connector is oil proof.
Dr. Arc flash wrote ...
What about expansion of the oil? It is surely going to start leaking out unless it has a vent. If you wish to have no air in the chamber you should add a expansion tank on the top I guess.
Marko
We are leaving about 10mm of air at the top of the tank, so the filler plug will have a felt covered hole for pressure relief.
Registered Member #1232
Joined: Wed Jan 16 2008, 10:53PM
Location: Doon tha Toon!
Posts: 881
Finn, do you have anything in place to stop the core pieces from sliding apart sideways? I can see that they are clamped from above, but it might be worth constraining them so they can't move apart sideways. Any shifting of the core halves due to vibration or magnetostriction might otherwise gradually upset the tuning of your SLR inverter. Even a simple spot of glue at the edge of the mated surfaces should be sufficient, and might prevent headaches caused by movement later.
Flyback converters, and SLR to a lesser extent are quite sensitive to relative movement of the core halves or changes in air gap.
Registered Member #205
Joined: Sat Feb 18 2006, 11:59AM
Location: Skørping, Denmark
Posts: 741
GeordieBoy wrote ...
Finn, do you have anything in place to stop the core pieces from sliding apart sideways? I can see that they are clamped from above, but it might be worth constraining them so they can't move apart sideways. Any shifting of the core halves due to vibration or magnetostriction might otherwise gradually upset the tuning of your SLR inverter. Even a simple spot of glue at the edge of the mated surfaces should be sufficient, and might prevent headaches caused by movement later.
Flyback converters, and SLR to a lesser extent are quite sensitive to relative movement of the core halves or changes in air gap.
-Richie,
Thanks for the tip, Richie, I wouldn`t have thought of that. I would be more inclined to keep the cores virgin to facilitate dismantling during post mortem . Anyway, a small glob og silicone glue is now destined to go where it matters.
Registered Member #1232
Joined: Wed Jan 16 2008, 10:53PM
Location: Doon tha Toon!
Posts: 881
Sometimes it helps to keep it so you can dismantle and even investigage the effects of mis-alignment initially. But once it is all working to your satisfaction i'd apply that spot of glue either side, just to make sure nothing drifts over time.
Registered Member #205
Joined: Sat Feb 18 2006, 11:59AM
Location: Skørping, Denmark
Posts: 741
Alex McCown wrote ...
when do you expect to show us first light? (aprox. month)
First light was long ago. 2nd and 3rd followed in short order.
Anyway, this iteration should shine brightly (hopefully in the right places) within a couple of months. Present most obvious obstacle is a 3 week leadtime on the resonant capacitors.
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CCPS (Capacitor Charging Power Supply)
And are you sure that connector is oil-proof? (if everything is going to sink into oil... But I guess some silicone could fix that.
.
