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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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Induction heating

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Simon
Thu May 25 2006, 12:33AM
Simon Registered Member #32 Joined: Sat Feb 04 2006, 08:58AM
Location: Australia
Posts: 549
That bolt is seriously hot but way off from melting. I'd guess about 700C (check a colour chart) - you'd need to get into the thousands to melt iron.

I'm sure Hazmatt knows that very well but just in case anyone missed the joke.

Gallium. Hmm, that might be a little easier. smile
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c4r0
Thu May 25 2006, 02:37PM
c4r0 Registered Member #151 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 02:53PM
Location: Poland
Posts: 153
This is two of my last photos:
a bearings ball and a steel screw

1148567815 151 FT9965 Dsc08192xxx

1148567520 151 FT9965 Dsc08188xxx

According to this chart Link2 it seems to be >1000*C on the edges, can it be true? suprised whoa
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Steve Conner
Thu May 25 2006, 06:44PM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
c4r0, I'm just wondering why did you choose to parallel feed the tank circuit? I tried the exact same setup, and an almost identical matching transformer, but I used a series feed to the tank. And the weird thing is, it worked about as well as yours :-/

My heater drew 7A at 30V and its performance was limited by the tank capacitors getting too hot.

http://scopeboy.com/elec/induction/
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Penguin7471
Fri May 26 2006, 07:07AM
Penguin7471 Registered Member #71 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:23AM
Location:
Posts: 63
c4r0... WOW! Nice work... is that still at the same input power?

Here are some of my objects... there is a large airgap between work coil and item because I wanted to be able to try many different metal things.

From top to bottom.. a weird hex nut/screw, a thin bolt, and a steel thread (actually one of my coilgun projectiles)
1148627270 71 FT9965 Pict0104
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c4r0
Fri May 26 2006, 11:00AM
c4r0 Registered Member #151 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 02:53PM
Location: Poland
Posts: 153
wrote ...
is that still at the same input power?
Yes, max 150W. I'm using a fullbridge made of irf820's (very cheap wink ) and i'm keeping voltage under 100V and current draw under 1,5A.

wrote ...
c4r0, I'm just wondering why did you choose to parallel feed the tank circuit? I tried the exact same setup, and an almost identical matching transformer, but I used a series feed to the tank. And the weird thing is, it worked about as well as yours :-/

My heater drew 7A at 30V and its performance was limited by the tank capacitors getting too hot.
Actually i don't know tongue I thought that parallel circuit will draw the smallest current from secondary winding in resonance (with the biggest current in tank circuit at the same time) , in contrast to serial circuit (the biggest current through primary in resonance).
This is my coil with capacitors.

1148640073 151 FT9965 Dsc08215xx

The capacitors doesn't get too warm. But the coil is soldered to caps and after about 30s of work the tin melts (becouse the coil gets red hot) and the coil comes off wink
I saw induction heater on your site, and actually i took the idea of using a transformer in my circuit from there smile I was amazed how it can work so well without a heatsink on mosfets.
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Wilson
Fri May 26 2006, 11:13AM
Wilson Registered Member #78 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 11:27AM
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 133
Nice work c4r0. I think the >1000 temp is accurate enough. Those metal parts look just like the coins which i was heating just before they were about to melt.
You might want to invest in some thin copper tubing to make a water cooled work coil for longer runs wink
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