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ignition coil is now apart

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LAN_403

silver_pioneer

Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:50AM

Registered Member #114 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 01:51AM
Location:
Posts: 1

I took my ignition coil apart today.First,I drained the oil by removing the hv output screw and
putting a hole in the bottom to allow air in.Next,I romoved the coil by taking a screw driver and
hammer to the rim of the can.Now I'm still cleaning the oil off the coil and core.The core is
separate strips of steel.The then I'm worried about is that the coil smells burnt.What does this
mean?And whats the best way to clean the oil off?The brand is delco and model num. is 293.

ChemTechLabs

Sat Feb 11 2006, 05:00AM

Registered Member #98 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:53PM
Location:
Posts: 14

Probably the best way to get all the oil off, is to get an old yogurt bucket put in about the size of a quarter of a grease cutting soap like Sunlight and then use cotten swabs or a cloth dipped in the soapy water. And just keep doing this till it's all off.

Dr. Shark

Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:34PM

Registered Member #75 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 09:30AM
Location: Montana, USA
Posts: 711

I'm not sure if I would use water near that, it will be as hard to get rid of as the oil and might short out the coil. I think using white spirit or some other organic solvent will work much better.

Any chance you could post a picture of the guts of the coil?

ON3LB

Sat Feb 18 2006, 02:12PM

Registered Member #173 Joined: Tue Feb 14 2006, 08:13AM
Location: JO21EE
Posts: 9

hi,
I was wondering, why do you want to take the coil apart ? I have about 4 coils here, and never took one apart. Would love to take it apart, if there is a good reason, or as a basis for some new project ?

Luke

putting the cat with the milk :)
I disssected one of my coils, and this is the result.
1. Did not drain the oil with drilling a hole, just drained it after removing the rim with a screwdriver.
2. When rim is opened, like a sardine can, one messing rim whaser was located, then, an O-ring.
3. Coil core and coil pulled out easyly, and found one porcelin core on the bottom of the cannister.
4. Porcelin core is located over metal transformerlike metal sandwich sheets, in center of coil.
Most likely to avoid touching base of metal coil cannister.
5. Amount of oil is only just above total windings of coild, not to the top of the housing.
6.Coil itself, : Wound onto metal multiplate square core, sperated with thin paper (real paper) drained in oil of course. each turn of windings, is 28 turn x5, each set of 28 turns separated by paper.
Attached series of pics for review.

Thanks for the interesting dissection :)

Luke

[Edit: Fixed Double post]

Marko

Sat Feb 18 2006, 02:24PM

Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145

How does the core look? The iron core in the middle...?

If you remove prymary, find some suitable casing (filled with oil) and wind new primary you could get some very nice sparks but on high frequency.
You can even drive it with a spark gap like a TC but carefully not to blow secondary...

ON3LB

Sat Feb 18 2006, 05:32PM

Registered Member #173 Joined: Tue Feb 14 2006, 08:13AM
Location: JO21EE
Posts: 9

here is close up of the iron core, i seperated the primary and unwound it fully, Like i said in previous post, each 28 turns are seperated by one turn of papersheet. The complete primary slides over the secondary. Secondary has two contacts, one is the metal core, with a springbladed contact capture, that gives contact to the top outside screw, which resides inside the HV terminal. The other contact is joined with one end of the primary and going out to a pin on the coil casing, Forgot to note if it's + or -.

Do you have rewind a primary before ? and if so, howmany turns, and also with paper separations ?

Cheers
Luke

Marko

Sat Feb 18 2006, 05:46PM

Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145

No, but I saw some people do (long ago, dont remember even where)
They actually used small primary consisting of few turns (pipe or gihg gauge wire) and ran entire thing under oil as air core transformer, that may be one of best uses of ignition coil taken apart (we got rid of iron core)
I heard taht spark can be tens of cm long, limit is insulation of secondary that tends to break with such voltages...

Interesting is that one should expect that core is round like entire coil but it is square...
Thanks for pictures,

ragnar

Sat Feb 18 2006, 07:37PM

Registered Member #63 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:18AM
Location:
Posts: 1425

I did that a while ago and asked people to guess what it was...

Precious1

http://www.whiteplasma.com/matt/imagedump/precious2.jpg
http://www.whiteplasma.com/matt/imagedump/precious3.jpg
http://www.whiteplasma.com/matt/imagedump/precious4.jpg

The resonant frequency was pretty low, too... or I smacked on a 4th harmonic of it or something - just twiddled the pot on my 555 til I got breakout.

You could probably do a lot better with a feedback driver and more power - I only had 12V.

ON3LB

Sun Feb 19 2006, 09:24AM

Registered Member #173 Joined: Tue Feb 14 2006, 08:13AM
Location: JO21EE
Posts: 9

hi,
I checked the links on the pictures you put up, and was thinking, did you put the coil back in it's original container ? and if so, how did you seal it back, with the original oil inside ?

Maybe you have some pictures left on the modified coil itself.

Cheers
Luke

Marko

Sun Feb 19 2006, 09:52AM

Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145

In aluminium container even without core losses would be high, its better to us some plastic container nicely sealed, if we want to drive it like TC

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