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4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
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Ignition Coil Guide?

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Steve Conner
Thu Jan 10 2008, 02:12PM Print
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Hi all,

I found this while doing some random net surfing: Link2
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uzzors2k
Thu Jan 10 2008, 09:59PM
uzzors2k Registered Member #95 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:57PM
Location: Norway
Posts: 1308
Good looking results he's gotten. My ignition coil attempts have always resulted in arc-overs, so I just don't understand how everyone gets such long sparks without extra insulation.
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Mates
Thu Jan 10 2008, 10:09PM
Mates Registered Member #1025 Joined: Sun Sept 23 2007, 07:53PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 566
I didn’t want to start a new thread, I think it can be placed here. I connected an ignition coil to the new driver designed for fly-back I posted yesterday. Link2 The whole coil is dipped inside an oil bath and it is a small monster! I pump 300V into the primary and the TVS let the primary induce around 900V before it clamps it down. I would never touch the sparks with my finger like the guy in the posted link. I wanted to try the same over the glass and I burned my finger and got a strong shock and the finger was like 6-7cm away from it!

Here are some pictures…
1200002659 1025 FT37229 Sg100661 Copy

1200002659 1025 FT37229 Sg100663

1200002659 1025 FT37229 Sg100665

Here is the electrode pulled out of the water. There is pretty fat (min 1cm) piece of glass isolating the lower electrode and the water and still the electron-flow go through all of that (the voltage must be huge). It also shows how bad insulator glass is and that’s why the caps made of glass have such poor qualities...

BTW: Tuns of ozone are produced by this setup (much more than from TC) so if anyone of you need a really strong source of O3 here is a suggestion...

Here are more pictures of the same coil with an older driver (simillar design) in my older posts: Link2
Link2
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uzzors2k
Fri Jan 11 2008, 01:30PM
uzzors2k Registered Member #95 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:57PM
Location: Norway
Posts: 1308
Mates wrote ...

It also shows how bad insulator glass is and that’s why the caps made of glass have such poor qualities...

It's actually capacitive coupling which gives you those arcs, and not the glass breaking down. Iggies aren't rectified.
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Kizmo
Fri Jan 11 2008, 03:27PM
Kizmo Registered Member #599 Joined: Thu Mar 22 2007, 07:40PM
Location: Northern Finland, Rovaniemi
Posts: 624
Be careful with that, i got almost killed (at least i believe so) with same sort of setup. I was applying HV to water like mates did, and suddenly my glass popped to hundreds and hundreds of pieces cheesey

That wasn't the dangerous part, but that 1 liter of water pouring on my table, on me AND 230V -> 40V transformer which powered whole thing... angry

I didn't got myself killed but i think it was pretty close
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