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Registered Member #546
Joined: Fri Feb 23 2007, 11:43PM
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 239
So I'm about 90% done populating my MiniBrure kit boards. I have the MiniBrute design ref book as well...
I have a couple questions for anyone who has built this, or similar systems...
The 0 ohm resistor - can I just short that with a wire, or do I need an actual 0 ohm resistor for some unbeknownst to me reason? And that reason is?
The type 78 ferrite ring core (T101) - can I substitute anything similar in size, or should I try to get one of the Fair-Rite ones exactly as called for? [EDIT: Big Thanks to Fair-Rite for hooking a geek up with some cores! They should be here soon... ]
... ok I think that's all I have for now.
I guess on a comment level, I'd say these are some great boards, very easy to work with. The Advanced modulator board is better, if only because ground plane through holes are easier to solder. I've found that several of the .1uf ceramic cap locations were not marked on the board, but a simple reference to the schematics makes their placement pretty clear. The board layouts are great - very compact, better than anything I've ever done personally :) I am really looking forward to getting this coil up and running.
one more thing...just because I have them - can I sub 74LSxx for the 74HCxx series chips?
Registered Member #63
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:18AM
Location:
Posts: 1425
I just find it easier to form the leads on a resistor than to find already-tinned-copper-wire and cut it to length... that's why I use 0-ohm resistors. They're pretty, too.
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
0ohm resistors were created so that automated pick/place machines could be used with the normal resistor tooling, instead of having custom pieces made for bare wire jumpers. When working by hand, wire works fine
As long as the GDT is the corrent material, and about the right size, it will work fine.
As to the HC vs LS, the LS chips is TTL, but the HC one is CMOS... I would stick with the correct technology...
Registered Member #546
Joined: Fri Feb 23 2007, 11:43PM
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 239
Ok, so I have all my boards finished now except the MMC.
The plans call for .33uf 2kv caps... I have a bunch of CDE942C's that are .15uf so could I double those up to .30 and get close enough for this thing to work, or should I try to find 3 of the GE .33 uf caps listed in the plans? (anyone got a few spares I could buy off ya?)
I really have no idea how tight the tolerances are for this coil.... I wish there was more about component substitution in the book :P
Registered Member #546
Joined: Fri Feb 23 2007, 11:43PM
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 239
Ok, so I got my Fair-Rite toroid cores in. The plans call for a 10//10 and 2x 20 turn trifilar windings.
Trifilar just means they're wound side by side on each turn, right?
....
So any construction tips on coiling this? I'm a bit confused as to how to get 20 turns between 10 turns....? maybe it's just late here.... and I'm over thinking this before doing it....but any helpful suggestions are welcome
Registered Member #154
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Cut three lengths of CAT wire, twist them together, then wind 10 turns on your ferrite core, cut one wire, then carry on winding the remainding 10 turns......parrallel the cut wires, and you have a 1:2 ratio GTD.
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A few MiniBrute DRSSTC questions
