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Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Tonic wrote ...
Hey, acutally I'm trying to build half bridge for flyback and, probably, tesla coil, but it would be later. There are schemes I've drawn in according to different site pages and schemes (there were russian, czech, polish and american :P)
IR2153 driver
hmm.. i think you have a bad capacitors value. I have build this circuit previously ,and reffering to your schematic, I used 100nf for C3 and 2,2nf for C4.
Registered Member #528
Joined: Fri Feb 16 2007, 10:32PM
Location: Warsaw, Poland
Posts: 166
jmartis, if it works for you, then I guess I'll listen to you, thanks ;)
Hm, I have problems with buying IR2153 or replacements, with exception of IR2155 which I found for 2 dollars, but at this time I was sure if I can use it. Now, after reading a datasheet, it seems that I could, since it's also a half-bridge driver. So, it's a true and can I use? If not, I will probably have to buy on online shop. Or use another driver - would you give any propositions? I'd like to use simple driver with popular parts, for example, with NE555. For start I don't need high frequencies, 50kHz sounds reasonable for me and I want to drive a half-bridge with IRFP450.
By the way, in weekend I was on bazaar and bought an russian 250W autotransformer with 200V to 270V regulation for 10$. Works nicely, with that I would supply 230V->24V transformer with higher voltage. So, in end I was able to power ZVS driver with 50V unload and 40V load. The results were impressive, I could stretch 11-14 cm arcs and the best things is that insulation doesn't work, even I've nice arcs. When there are no any arcs, I can see what a good insulation really means when secondaries arcs to themselves and core. A secondaries and cores killer, hehe. But, after insulating it properly and eventually adding third secondary I would probably get something around 20cm. In this way I should fight with Philer's record of arc length achieved on flybacks ;)
And, what insulation do you suggest for high voltage, with exeption of oil?
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Tonic wrote ...
Hm, I have problems with buying IR2153 or replacements, with exception of IR2155 which I found for 2 dollars, but at this time I was sure if I can use it. Now, after reading a datasheet, it seems that I could, since it's also a half-bridge driver. So, it's a true and can I use?
the IR2155 is an older version of IR2153, so yes, I think you can use it
Tonic wrote ...
And, what insulation do you suggest for high voltage, with exeption of oil?
For me, white candle wax works amazingly well for insulating HV stuff , but can be used only where temperature is not expected to rise too high
Registered Member #286
Joined: Mon Mar 06 2006, 04:52AM
Location:
Posts: 399
"I will try it without the resistor, the cascade was free anyway so it doesn't matter if I destroy it" It does matter. They don't make them anymore. I had one ten years ago and have not seen one since then.
Registered Member #528
Joined: Fri Feb 16 2007, 10:32PM
Location: Warsaw, Poland
Posts: 166
jmartis wrote ...
the IR2155 is an older version of IR2153, so yes, I think you can use it
Hmm.. according to charts included in IR2155's datasheet, before powering it, I should set variable resistor to max value, because it will set the lowest possible in this circuit frequency. Decreasing resistance will increase frequency. Am I right? I should finish the driver tomorrow (without IR2155), so I'm asking for surety ;)
Another question, on what value of half-bridge's power consumption depend?
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Tonic wrote ...
Hmm.. according to charts included in IR2155's datasheet, before powering it, I should set variable resistor to max value, because it will set the lowest possible in this circuit frequency. Decreasing resistance will increase frequency. Am I right? I should finish the driver tomorrow (without IR2155), so I'm asking for surety ;)
Yes, with decreasing resistance frequency increases, but I don't think it matters where you set it before powering up
Tonic wrote ...
Another question, on what value of half-bridge's power consumption depend?
This depends on many things, the main I think are supply voltage, number of primary turns and frequency.
Maybe I should warn you about one thing: Every transformer (flybacks included) has its own resonant frequency (and its harmonics), where resonant rise occurs and the output voltage from the secondary is MANY TIMES the voltage when not in resonance, and also current draw increases dramatically. The voltage is usually enough to destroy your flyback in a fraction of second. Therefore I recommend at first power up to include some form of current limiting (a light bulb in series) and tune the circuit out of resonance (with least "idle" current draw), then you can remove it, but I usually put bigger bulbs in series before removing it completely, because it can also save your driver from exploding if something goes wrong.
Registered Member #528
Joined: Fri Feb 16 2007, 10:32PM
Location: Warsaw, Poland
Posts: 166
wrote ...
Yes, with decreasing resistance frequency increases, but I don't think it matters where you set it before powering up
Right, I was just thinking that higher frequency is, uglier output waveform is.
wrote ...
Maybe I should warn you about one thing: Every transformer (flybacks included) has its own resonant frequency (and its harmonics), where resonant rise occurs and the output voltage from the secondary is MANY TIMES the voltage when not in resonance, and also current draw increases dramatically. The voltage is usually enough to destroy your flyback in a fraction of second. Therefore I recommend at first power up to include some form of current limiting (a light bulb in series) and tune the circuit out of resonance (with least "idle" current draw), then you can remove it, but I usually put bigger bulbs in series before removing it completely, because it can also save your driver from exploding if something goes wrong.
Too bad I don't have oscilloscope or any device for measuring frequency. That's the one of reason I've choosen IR2153/5, since they give without setting give two outputs which have square waveforms and one of them is horizontally 'flipped' and both of them have 50% cycle duty. That makes life simple, for me of course ;) But, if oscilloscope will be seriously needed, I may try with one in my school, but I can't guarantee that my teacher will allow to use.
BTW, I've prepared PCB and now it is taking an acid bath. The overall driver looks very cute for me, I'll try to shot photo as I get digital camera.
Registered Member #528
Joined: Fri Feb 16 2007, 10:32PM
Location: Warsaw, Poland
Posts: 166
Damn, I can't get this IR2155 driver to work. After playing with PCB version, I've decided to make simplier version. A small, fastly made PCB with 8pin IC socket, and I did in that way (see, I've tried it so many times and I can remember how I've soldered ;)) :
- ground connected to pin 4 - 1.5nF or 3.3nF (I can't read those weird names, there are only numbers) ceramic capacitor across pin 4 and pin 3 - 10Kohm resistor across pin 3 and pin 2 - plus to pin 1 - 1NF4007 diode across pin 1 and pin 8 - 1uF electrolytic capacitor across pin 8 and pin 6 - pin 7 -> 10ohm resistor -> upper MOSFET gate - pin 5 -> 10ohm resistor -> down MOSFET gate - pin 6 -> upper MOSFET's source and down MOSFET's drain -> primary winding - upper MOSFET's drain to plus - down MOSFET's source to minus - two 1uF 275ACV X2 capacitors connected in series and parallel to plus and ground - there where two capacitors are connected, it goes to primary winding
I hope you understond.. and found out if there's something wrong. What I have, is that when I plug driver to ~30DCV, there's no output of HV transformer, only IR2155 gets quite warm. I thought it was destroyed IR2155 from PCB version, so I replaced it with another and checked for while, but without results. I don't have oscilloscope, only cheap digital multimeter :P
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Hmm. Replace the diode with fast one (UF4007 works well). It also happened to me that I thought I have everything connected well and the driver did nothing, and then I found that I forgot a connection between lower fet's source and driver ic's ground! If the ic gets warm, aren't you supplying it with too high voltage? It has an internal zener clamp to 14-16v so don't go above 14v.
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