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Registered Member #96
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4059
The LEDs are *not* supposed to get hot! Yes it sounds like the old driver had a current regulator, you could possibly use something like an LM317T in CC mode.
Registered Member #2463
Joined: Wed Nov 11 2009, 03:49AM
Location:
Posts: 1546
You need to measure the power input to the ballast at 120 volts 60 HZ with a watt meter. Your new power supply is not a ballast.
If you reverse engineer the fixture, good luck. But that backward R U on the label means it has been tested to prevent it from causing a number of ills, that are under the umbrella of safety.
Registered Member #54278
Joined: Sat Jan 17 2015, 04:42AM
Location: Amite, La.
Posts: 367
I did something similar, and to my surprise, successfully, with a potted HeNe laser PS once...(Sam's LASER FAQ was of great help): Can you install a good heatsink, with grease, and have metal that is well thermally connected to the main sink sticking out the sides of the re-potted, re-sealed PS? Do a good job of resealing and you can cool things many ways from outside! Remember, I don't have a great image of exactly what needs to be done.
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LED light problem, need some input.
