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4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
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Problems getting ZVS driver to work

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TwirlyWhirly555
Fri Jan 29 2016, 01:04PM
TwirlyWhirly555 Registered Member #4104 Joined: Fri Sept 23 2011, 06:54PM
Location: Uk .
Posts: 122
Most of the time I never used Zeners at all , just used a 12V gate supply , 50V flyback supply .

Its a risk sure , but It did work
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woodchuck
Sun Jan 31 2016, 08:32PM
woodchuck Registered Member #39190 Joined: Sat Oct 26 2013, 09:15AM
Location: Boise National Forest
Posts: 65
TwirlyWhirly555 wrote ...

Most of the time I never used Zeners at all , just used a 12V gate supply , 50V flyback supply .
But it's still a ZVS driver? I very much like the idea of a separate supply for the gates and the flyback transformer. Could you point me to a schematic or description that illustrates what you're doing?
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Kiwihvguy
Sun Jan 31 2016, 09:42PM
Kiwihvguy Registered Member #3395 Joined: Thu Nov 04 2010, 08:42AM
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Posts: 193
Heisenberg wrote ...

Finally figured out the problem! I removed the 18v zeners and replaced them with 12v zeners and replaced the 150uH inductor with a 55uH inductor and it works! Since I did a couple of things at the same time, I'm not sure which one resolved the issue. Could have been a bad zener, the inductor could have been too big, or maybe the 12v vs 18v zener did it, or maybe a combination of a few different factors.

I'm glad I finally conquered this demon. I'll still play around with different amounts of capacitors and different inductors to find the best results, but at least I have a working ZVS driver at last.

Thanks to all who posted for your help and nudging me in the right direction.

Heisenberg - congratulations and well done on successfully troubleshooting and finding the problem! It's a wonderful feeling to get it working, isn't it? I was sure it would be the zeners, most of my ZVS failures have been attributed to faulty zener diodes, easily overlooked as a relatively trivial component but determines the function almost totally.

From personal experience, from now on I would advise you to put your driver in an enclosure and construct it such that it's easy to replace the inductors, capacitors or the FETs without damaging or putting physical stress on the rest of the circuit. I often experimented by changing the inductors and capacitors and even tried different flybacks too, and it would have been much less stressful if I had taken the time to put it in an enclosure, I wouldn't have had to worry so much about handling it with care and being aware of its fragility.

With the IRFP260s, don't push them over 50V, but other than that have fun and enjoy some safe arcing! See how big you can get the arcs to become :)
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Kiwihvguy
Sun Jan 31 2016, 09:48PM
Kiwihvguy Registered Member #3395 Joined: Thu Nov 04 2010, 08:42AM
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Posts: 193
woodchuck wrote ...

TwirlyWhirly555 wrote ...

Most of the time I never used Zeners at all , just used a 12V gate supply , 50V flyback supply .
But it's still a ZVS driver? I very much like the idea of a separate supply for the gates and the flyback transformer. Could you point me to a schematic or description that illustrates what you're doing?


Where the positive rail comes in at the top, separate the connection going to the top 470 ohm resistor from the top positive rail. Now, the 12V supply for the gate drive connects to the 470 ohm resistor, and the top positive rail that goes to the inductor is the higher voltage, higher current power supply that powers the flyback.
Driver
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woodchuck
Mon Feb 01 2016, 01:23AM
woodchuck Registered Member #39190 Joined: Sat Oct 26 2013, 09:15AM
Location: Boise National Forest
Posts: 65
Thank you for this, Kiwihvguy. My first concern upon reading your answer was that providing gate power without flyback power would burn up the MOSFETS. But that's silly. :) Presumably, by the time there is enough voltage on the primary to heat up the MOSFETs, there would be enough voltage on the primary to start oscillation. ;)
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Heisenberg
Mon Feb 01 2016, 09:55PM
Heisenberg Registered Member #58279 Joined: Sat Jan 09 2016, 05:39AM
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 13
Kiwihvguy wrote ...

Heisenberg wrote ...

Finally figured out the problem! I removed the 18v zeners and replaced them with 12v zeners and replaced the 150uH inductor with a 55uH inductor and it works! Since I did a couple of things at the same time, I'm not sure which one resolved the issue. Could have been a bad zener, the inductor could have been too big, or maybe the 12v vs 18v zener did it, or maybe a combination of a few different factors.

I'm glad I finally conquered this demon. I'll still play around with different amounts of capacitors and different inductors to find the best results, but at least I have a working ZVS driver at last.

Thanks to all who posted for your help and nudging me in the right direction.

Heisenberg - congratulations and well done on successfully troubleshooting and finding the problem! It's a wonderful feeling to get it working, isn't it? I was sure it would be the zeners, most of my ZVS failures have been attributed to faulty zener diodes, easily overlooked as a relatively trivial component but determines the function almost totally.

From personal experience, from now on I would advise you to put your driver in an enclosure and construct it such that it's easy to replace the inductors, capacitors or the FETs without damaging or putting physical stress on the rest of the circuit. I often experimented by changing the inductors and capacitors and even tried different flybacks too, and it would have been much less stressful if I had taken the time to put it in an enclosure, I wouldn't have had to worry so much about handling it with care and being aware of its fragility.

With the IRFP260s, don't push them over 50V, but other than that have fun and enjoy some safe arcing! See how big you can get the arcs to become :)



Thanks! I just got a shipment of new components from Mouser, a bunch of clip-on FET heatsinks, heat transfer pads, some 2.2uF WIMA MKP caps, and some IRFP460s. I wanted to play around with more capacitors by adding additional caps to my tank. One question though, what does one gain by adding more capacitors? I've seen videos of people running ZVS drivers running an induction coil with over 30 caps easy. I ask because I'm using the driver for more than just creating cool arcs, I'm also planning on using it to drive an induction heater to melt aluminum in a graphite crucible.

I wanted to make a smaller version first before I buy one of the big ones from China that includes the pre-formed coils. I am going to hook it up to a water pump and CPU radiator to keep the coils from burning up.

I tried doing induction heating with another driver I had, but the coil got so hot that it started melting the plastic screw terminals that the coil was connected to...but it was working...it turned a pretty thick nail red hot in about 5-10 seconds, but I couldn't run it long enough because of the heat transfer.

Any tips on how to prevent the heat from traveling up the copper coil wire to the PCB? I have a few pretty meaty heatsink/fan combos with peltier that bring the temps down to a frosty -10 degrees. I was thinking about somehow mounting the copper wires between the coil and the PCB to one of those peltiers with some thermal paste and electrically isolating them if using a bare heatsink with ceramic or silicone pads.

I also successfully built a 555 plasma speaker using an IRFP460, but the FET gets so damn hot I needed a dedicated peltier and heatsink just for that FET. I'm waiting on components to construct a more reliable and better plasma speaker using the following instructable: Link2

Sorry for getting off topic there, but you guys have been a great help. Any thought you can offer on using the IRFP460s and what is gained by increasing your cap tank would be awesome.
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GrantX
Tue Feb 02 2016, 04:42AM
GrantX Registered Member #4074 Joined: Mon Aug 29 2011, 06:58AM
Location: Australia
Posts: 335
A larger value for the tank capacitor will make the ZVS oscillate at a lower frequency. More caps in parallel is used to increase the current rating.
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Inducktion
Tue Feb 02 2016, 05:26AM
Inducktion Registered Member #3637 Joined: Fri Jan 21 2011, 11:07PM
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1068
Heisenburg;

Next time you order some FET's from mouser or digikey, don't necessarily get IRFP series fets. They're older transistors now at this point and there are far far far better options out there that will perform better at the same or lower price.

A great place to get transistors and other parts is here
Link2

since they have a huge selection of overstock parts/discontinued parts. I got some 600 volt 47 amp IGBT's for $1.57 each. They have 1100 pF of gate capacitance.

IRFP250 from newark? $2.88. And it has 2154 pF of gate capacitance, can only handle 200 volts, at 30 amps.

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TwirlyWhirly555
Tue Feb 02 2016, 06:30AM
TwirlyWhirly555 Registered Member #4104 Joined: Fri Sept 23 2011, 06:54PM
Location: Uk .
Posts: 122
woodchuck wrote ...

Thank you for this, Kiwihvguy. My first concern upon reading your answer was that providing gate power without flyback power would burn up the MOSFETS. But that's silly. :) Presumably, by the time there is enough voltage on the primary to heat up the MOSFETs, there would be enough voltage on the primary to start oscillation. ;)

When I ran mine with the separate supply , connecting the 12V gate supply first , the circuit would start to oscillate ( checked with a scope ) and then when the main supply was connected it would work as normal
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woodchuck
Tue Feb 02 2016, 11:48PM
woodchuck Registered Member #39190 Joined: Sat Oct 26 2013, 09:15AM
Location: Boise National Forest
Posts: 65
TwirlyWhirly555 wrote ...
When I ran mine with the separate supply , connecting the 12V gate supply first , the circuit would start to oscillate ( checked with a scope ) and then when the main supply was connected it would work as normal
Interesting that it would oscillate with just the gate supply. Still, I don't doubt you. Hope mine will behave similarly. In the situation I have, a gentle but reliable ramp-up is much needed, even if I have to hang extra circuitry on to assure that.
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