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Registered Member #6534
Joined: Sat Sept 08 2012, 12:22PM
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 32
Alright, final parts are coming in today if all goes right. As far as I can tell from the datasheet (, the max gate voltage is 1.3 Volts with a current between 8 and 80 mA. Does that mean I can simply trigger it with 2 AA batteries, a switch and a resistor in series and with the negative pole of the batteries connected to the cathode of the SCR? Also, I made a rough sketch of the circuit. Still not entirely sure about the diode though. I know it should be antiparallel to the capacitors, but where should I place it? If I place it directly at the capacitors, the reverse-current will still have to travel through the SCR, which I don't believe is what I want (Cough). So my guess is that I should place it at 2 (See pic). That way all energy will immediately get dissipated, or am I missing something?
Registered Member #6534
Joined: Sat Sept 08 2012, 12:22PM
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 32
K, nearly done now. The hardest parts are definitely over. Last question for now: I've been reading some more about triggering scr's, and I'm not entirely comfortable about my idea to trigger it with a switch, some batteries and a resistor in series. I've read people using a small capacitor pulse into the gate, others used a timer circuit, etc. Couldn't really find any definitive answers as each solution seemed to have its own troubles. So I'll just throw it out here; What is the best (Or easiest) way to trigger a scr without blowing it up? How do you guys trigger yours, and what have been the results? Thanks again.
:Edit: Also, could anyone confirm the gate voltage of 1.3 volts and current of 80mA? Here's the datasheet again: Just in case I'm looking at the wrong numbers. ^^
Registered Member #6534
Joined: Sat Sept 08 2012, 12:22PM
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 32
W00P, I can almost start causing destruction xD Trigger works, charger (Sort of) works, and my projectiles can make holes in foam boards. Still have to work on the charging board as it refuses to get past 300 V while the gun is designed for 450 V. I'm just gonna punch it some more. Anyways, here's some pics of the progress: Been a long time already since the last pic I uploaded...
Registered Member #6534
Joined: Sat Sept 08 2012, 12:22PM
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 32
Really? I thought metal around the coil would be a good thing? Oh well, I can always change it with perspex or something similar. Wouldn't plastics crack earlier when the coil pulses?
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My first 'real 'coilgun
