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4hv.org :: Forums :: Chemistry
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Ball mill - Lead alternatives?

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Bjørn
Tue Jun 27 2006, 04:50AM
Bjørn Registered Member #27 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 02:20AM
Location: Hyperborea
Posts: 2058
That something has worked millions of times for other people does not make it automatically safer. You need to know why it has worked and what may cause it not to work.

For example does humidity play a large part in if static electricity will be a problem or not. Charcoal and sulfur dust clouds may be ignited by sparks of 15-20 mJ. In a dry desert it might happen every day and some other place it might not happen in the lifetime of the universe.
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Billybobjoe
Tue Jun 27 2006, 04:18PM
Billybobjoe Registered Member #396 Joined: Wed Apr 19 2006, 12:55AM
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 176
Well, its fairly humid here, average of about 80% so its far from a desert, but I'm not going to rely mainly on humidity. I suppose I'll mill wet (with water), but would I absolutely have to use lead balls? If the mixtures WET there won't be static with the glass.

I suppose lead dust would be kept to a minimum if I was grinding wet, but I'd still like to stay away from it if possible.
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Carbon_Rod
Wed Jun 28 2006, 01:32AM
Carbon_Rod Registered Member #65 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:43AM
Location:
Posts: 1155
I would not recommend glass – unless you are trying to make a paint or polymer mix.

For rounding off river stones or glass shards a course 220 SiC is pretty efficient. Don’t leave it too long as it will powder normal stones after a time (roughly 10-36 hours).

For surface preparation use 800 to 1200 SiC grinding compounds (always keep the dust wet and your respirator will last longer.)

For polishing talcum powder works ok for most things.

For cleaning iron cast the old ball bearings or brass ball pellets work well. Contaminates like stainless steel are magnetic so easily removed from a mix.

Yeah, as a kid I collected stones from all over. Also made more than a few solid fuel model rockets. Another good tip – leave your used grinding compound in a transparent plastic or glass bucket for a while so you can see where the sedimentation lines fall. That way you can reuse the grinding compound many more times

Fun stuff,
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Hazmatt_(The Underdog)
Wed Jun 28 2006, 08:31AM
Hazmatt_(The Underdog) Registered Member #135 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
Actually water will help to oxidize fresh lead surfaces to lead oxide faster then if lead is left to sit out.

ALSO PLEASE post clearly what you are doing and DETAILS in the FIRST POST, not successive posts.

gawd that drives me crazy!
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Billybobjoe
Thu Jun 29 2006, 09:31PM
Billybobjoe Registered Member #396 Joined: Wed Apr 19 2006, 12:55AM
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 176
Hazmatt_(The Underdog) wrote ...


ALSO PLEASE post clearly what you are doing and DETAILS in the FIRST POST, not successive posts.

gawd that drives me crazy!

What exactly do you mean about the lead oxidizing? Is that a good thing or what?

Sorry about not providing all the info. You would think people would understand this is something pyrotechnic considering its in the chemistry forum and I don't want any sparks. You don't really have to worry about limestone or whatever igniting.

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Steve Conner
Fri Jun 30 2006, 10:14AM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Calm down hazmatt confused I don't have a problem with Nick T's posting style, in fact I think he's one of our more understandable posters.

As for inexpensive: How much would you pay not to get your face blown off by an exploding ball mill? For goodness' sake just buy the proper non-sparking milling media that the pyro community already uses and knows by experience to be safe. I think the danger of an explosion is much more worrying than the danger of lead dust.

When I used to make black powder, it always sucked. I think it was because my KNO3 was coarse crystals, only a little finer than sugar, and I never had the patience to grind it properly with my crappy wooden mortar and pestle.
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