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Registered Member #3766
Joined: Sun Mar 20 2011, 05:39AM
Location:
Posts: 624
Zinc oxide in oil... sounds like sunscreen... I might give that a shot in the future, but I think I'll check to make sure it's not too conductive first. I wonder how it would compare to titanium oxide?
Registered Member #27
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 02:20AM
Location: Hyperborea
Posts: 2058
Some did get squeezed out though, but I thought it was best to use slightly too much than too little. I'm building some similar, larger ones for a bridge rectifier, and that will probably use up several syringes full.
The paste should only fill the microscopic voids on the surface. so a syringe should last almost forever if you use parts that are properly flat. Using more than required will give you worse performance since the thermal conductivity of the paste is lower than that of the heatsink itself.
Sometimes when I am just testing something I use a drop of water, it works well until the water evaporates.
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
Pinky's Brain wrote ...
.Why not just use bits of soft solder, clamp it and put it in the oven? Much better thermal conductivity.
I had considered doing just that if I was to use copper plates instead of aluminium alloy.
I was under the impression that you can't solder aluminium, (hence the Al MOT wire being 'useless')
I'm not sure if sunscreen will be ideal, due to viscosity, etc. (I'm just guessing here, I imagine it is more viscous than heatsink paste, but I've never had to use it, I live in England)
I'm tempted to try DOT 5 silicon brake fluid and zinc oxide nano particles (French system).
DOT 5 is hydrophobic, but does absorb a small amount of air. it does have a high boiling point though, and a relatively low viscosity.
I imagine it also has pretty good heat dissipation qualities, due to it's intended use.
Registered Member #3888
Joined: Sun May 15 2011, 09:50PM
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 649
I wonder if any polishing compounds might work, as they have small particles in an oily suspension. I've got a bucket of cerium oxide powder at school. I think a soft metal might be the best for heat transfer though. even if the solder won't stick to the aluminum, it will fill up the voids. you could use straight lead and hammer it into little premade heatsink squares.
Here is one of the classics: Thermal transfer compound comparison.
They tried the usual thermal compounds from different makes and just for fun: toothpaste, Vegemite and tap water.
>Firing up my Minty Fresh Thermal Transfer Experiment produced, rather hilariously, an excellent score - 0.47°C/W >Vegemite's runny compared with thermal goop, as well.. [stuff deleted] But the stuff still delivered a solid 0.48°C/W result. >To see whether these substances work so well simply because they're wet, I tried some plain tapwater between the heater and the heat sink. And lo, it scored a magnificent 0.41°C/W - possibly at least partly because, without any gelling material, it was free to move heat by convection as well as conduction.
So ultimately the right goop is the one that give you the long term reliable and performance...
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
Neet Studio wrote ...
Here is one of the classics: Thermal transfer compound comparison.
That's an interesting article, Neet. The difference between the best and the worst is 0.02 degrees C per watt, and they are all at least 0.16 degrees C per watt better than no paste. I think that means that the difference between best and worst is around 12.5%, but as using heatsink compound only gives a 25% increase in performance than no compound, 12.5% of 25% is an overall increase in performance of only around 3.125%. This will obviously vary from application to application depending on other factors (the most important being size/design of heatsink, rate of airflow (cubic feet/minute), flatness, etc., but indicates that in a well designed system, assuming the heatsink and component concerned are cool enough to touch (the general rule used by most here), the type of compound used makes difference of a couple of degrees C at most in the 'worst case scenario'.
Apparently, the silicone based DOT 5 brake fluid I mentioned above has a sufficiently low vapour pressure that it can be used as diffusion pump oil. I think (but I've not checked) that it's boiling point is probably higher, so it shouldn't 'dry out'. It is hydrophobic, so doesn't absorb water. The only disadvantage I can find is that it will absorb a small amount of air, but given that the surface area exposed to the atmosphere is virtually non-existant, this shouldn't be a huge problem (I think all silicone based oils do, even the ones they use in the 'proper' compounds.)
I'll just mix it with zinc oxide until I get the same consistency as the 'real thing'.
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