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Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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another smd removal method

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ragnar
Thu Jun 22 2006, 10:28PM
ragnar Registered Member #63 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:18AM
Location:
Posts: 1425
EVR, I can understand where they're coming from. Since any surface-mount components I need aren't worth buying (i.e. I don't need quantities, and only order from digikey every few months, when I'm desperate), this is a good way to always have a floating stock of a few SMDs.

It's sortof like acrylic/plastic sheet offcuts - they're perfect for jigs, fixtures and lasercutter work, so I never throw them out =)
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rev
Fri Jun 23 2006, 12:55AM
rev Registered Member #112 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 01:19AM
Location:
Posts: 48
hmm. i have a full box of goodies for model r/c plane building that involve heat. i'm gona need to check temps.

maybe that and some solder paste and i can finaly work with smd
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HV Enthusiast
Fri Jun 23 2006, 02:15AM
HV Enthusiast Registered Member #15 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
i never trust SMD components after they are removed.
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ragnar
Fri Jun 23 2006, 02:46AM
ragnar Registered Member #63 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:18AM
Location:
Posts: 1425
I never trust SMD components.


:P
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WaveRider
Fri Jun 23 2006, 10:45AM
WaveRider Registered Member #29 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 09:00AM
Location: Hasselt, Belgium
Posts: 500
SMD components are great if you build circuits for frequencies >100MHz...no lead parasitics to worry about. Just need a steady hand, pair of pointy tweezers, fine-tipped soldering iron...
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Simon
Fri Jun 23 2006, 10:47PM
Simon Registered Member #32 Joined: Sat Feb 04 2006, 08:58AM
Location: Australia
Posts: 549
EastVoltResearch wrote ...

i never trust SMD components after they are removed.


Which is a point I was going to raise.

How reliable are second hand SMDs removed this way? It looks brutish for such wee, sensitive beings.
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Avalanche
Sat Jun 24 2006, 09:24AM
Avalanche Registered Member #103 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:16PM
Location: Derby, UK
Posts: 845
You can heat whole SMD components to the melting point of solder, without harming them. When the board is assembled it is heated slowly in an oven, so the removing them like this is no more destructive than when the thing was made. The only time you can damage them is heating them unevenly, or too quickly - same goes for when they cool down. The ovens on a work placement I did once had a conveyor belt running through them, and the temperature decreased towards the end to cool them slowly. SMD components are almost indestructible!
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HV Enthusiast
Sat Jun 24 2006, 01:13PM
HV Enthusiast Registered Member #15 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
SMD components are not almost indestructible. Any SMD components which are removed should always be suspect of being damaged. Period. I would never use SMD components again if they were already removed, and certaintly would NEVER buy them second hand that way.
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Wolfram
Sat Jun 24 2006, 02:06PM
Wolfram Registered Member #33 Joined: Sat Feb 04 2006, 01:31PM
Location: Norway
Posts: 971
For the hobby stuff we do, recycled SMD-components most likely won't be a problem, unless it's something demanding very high reliability. Recycling SMD components can save lots of money, and certain SMD chips are very hard to get in single-unit quantities. My favorite method of removing SMDs with leads on two sides (won't work for TQFP and the like) is to put a thin wire under all of the pins on one side, put solder all over those pins, heat up and slowly pull up the wire. All the pins on that side will be lifted up. After that, you can apply solder to all of the pins on the other side, heat them and remove the chip.
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Marko
Sat Jun 24 2006, 02:12PM
Marko Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
I was trying such lots-of-solder method but ends up messy as it is hard to heat everything equally with iron.
Also pins are left linked together and it's annoying to remove it later.

Hot air fan proved simple, quick and great for almost any mass-desoldering stuff.

I aslo found a technique to cover copper prefboards with thin layers of solder using fan and steel wool. Board cannot rust anymore and it becomes a real sweet spot for soldering.
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